I can't see someone wanting an induction hob being satisfied with a pile
of free standing ones. Still, nothing to stop you provisioning a circuit
appropriate for four of them if that is what takes your fancy.
I bought one, then discovered the pans were non-magnetic so it was useless
without new pans.
I bought a £1.99 wok from asda and that worked really well..
until I tried full power and it got so hot in a couple of seconds the oil
I decided I wanted gas, its just better than electric for hobs.
I suppose you can pick up a stainless steel pan with a cored bottom and know
if it works on an induction hob from sight?
And they predated induction hobs by a decade or two so there are no markings
on them to indicate what they work on unlike newer pans. I chose the easy
way, try them, how would you do it?
Indeed. I have a separate 40A radial circuit to feed a double fan oven
and a ceramic hob. The washer/dryer, kettle, microwave (certainly not
2kW!) are all on a normal downstairs ring with a 32A MCB.
Even when I'm using both ovens (rarely), and couple of hob rings, (as
well as a bit of tumble drying) I've never tripped an MCB, or even the
incoming fuse when occasionally boiling the kettle (which is a very
rare occurence in my household).
What's a "plug in fish fryer", BTW? I'm a vegetarian.
Oven with 13A plug doing the roast (eg 2kW).
Hob with 13A plug doing pan of spuds, pan of misc veg (eg 2kW).
Washing machine doing the Sunday laundry (eg 1kW rising to 2kW).
Already coming up to 6kW and the fridge hasn't even kicked on
Well a 32A MCB should never trip with loads upto 8.3kW. So sticking another
100W on for the fridge will not make any difference even if there is already
a 6kW load and some inrush current from the motor.
It will also supply 10.6kW for an hour before tripping. The oven and hob
spend more time using no electricity than using electricity when in use
(they cycle on and off once they have reached cooking temperature). The
washing maching is probably using electricity most of the time due to the
motor but that is not a big load.
The important point to keep in mind is that is the maximum power, not
the average. It will draw 2kW for a few mins when warming up, but after
that will cycle on and off to maintain temperature. The result will be a
significantly lower average load.
Hobs tend to be on dedicated circuits...
Again a couple of kW for heating purposes - but probably only for 10 15
min bursts as it does a fill for a hot wash. The motor will be a
significantly lower load.
Nowhere close to even 6kW in a form that counts, and a fridge is a
fairly small load.
Consider the example of a 15kW cooker given in the OSG. That is a peak
load of over 65A. However the recommended circuit to supply is it a 32A
One would assess the actual real world current demand as 10A + 30% of
the remainder. So 10 + 55 x 0.3 = 26.5A
Look at the trip response of a 32A MCB:
Even if you flip all the knobs round to "full" on the oven and hob, and
manage to draw 65A, the MCB is not going to trip on its magnetic
response (you need north of 96A for that, and possibly as much as 160A).
The thermal part of the trip will tolerate that load for at least couple
of minuets. By which time the stats on the rings will already be
reducing the demand dramatically.
The point I am trying to make is not that you can't overload a circuit
and cause it to trip - obviously you can if you try hard enough, or
design it badly enough. However what matters is the sustained average
load, and for many domestic appliances this is often significantly less
than the peak load. Circuits will also safely supply power at well over
their nominal maximum for short durations. So a 32A circuit may supply a
constant average load of 30A, but that may represent a peak load of
significantly more if you go round adding up the numbers on each
appliances spec plate.
On 11/11/2010 21:56, email@example.com wrote:
Hmm. I fitted a roller shutter garage door a few years ago. The
destructions specified plug and socket. When I queried this I was told I
could of course use a FCU for isolation but most electricians preferred
plug and socket.
I have a FCU for boiler isolation but it is by the programmer, not the
boiler. Is this now deprecated?
An *unswitched* socket is acceptable. A switched one isn't, as some
are only single-pole switched and someone might switch off but not
pull out the plug.
A spur box with dp switch is what has been suggested.
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