I have a lot of these 12v MR16 ceiling mounted spots and a stack of bulbs to fit them, but the one at the top of the stairwell went and that is a ladder to reach, so I thought a long life LED might do the job...
...and to my surprise, its actually brighter than the incandescents. It's sold as a '50W replacement'
Definitely recommended
Any particular brand?
Chris
I never did 'get' the appeal of these mini spotlights, especially when you feel how hot they get.
I was helping a guy with WiFi round his 3 story house and the lighting circuits tripped a few times while I was there.
I think I calculated a good few kW of lighting and the place never seemed particularly bright (where I wanted to work anyway). Turning on the kitchen lights with the hall and lounge was a no-no I was told. ;-(
He also complained about having to replace them fairly regularly.
I fitted 3 (GU10s) LEDs in a ceiling mounted luminarie for step-niece a couple of years ago now and she was happy with the light level and I've not been told of any failures as yet. These were just an Aldi offering as well.
I think we would need the make / model unless there is only one maker of MR16 LEDs as that can make a big difference to loads of things.?
Cheers, T i m
Just some overpriced crap I got in Homebase - screwfix being a tad further away and not 'walk in' I think
TPC? TCP?
As regards simple illumination, perhaps not ideal. But as a pretty unobtrusive lamp when not in use, very popular.
"Dave Plowman (News)" snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk> wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk:
Surely the packaging quotes the "Lumens" and the "Beam Angle".
Flicker is often a problem with the 12v supply and underloading it can make it worse.
Can be great to throw light into the extremes of a room.
I've rarely fund them so when going round other peoples places (and working on IT kit).
I guess because I'm a utilitarian I'd never rate 'obtrusiveness' over ease of installation / function. ;-)
In this lounge we have a single central light (that was a gas light when I bought the place) that is now in a ceiling fan. We also have a couple of side / background lights, one on Home Assistant that comes on after the curtains close.
Because the fan / lamp had quite a small globe, I was restricted re replacing an incandescent for CFL / LED so had a halogen one in there for some time.
Moving over to more HA managed stuff, I replaced the BC22 holders in both the fan / lights for ES27 (as 'smart lights' seem more common in ES) and designed and 3D printed new translucent shades that gave some 'coverage' of the bare lamp whilst allowing good light dispersal and though cooling for the LED lamps and not impacting the airflow of the fan.
Again, the shade was designed 'utility' but a mate, not known to give praise freely said he really liked the design / solution.
To me they look a bit like the nozzles on a Saturn V's F-1 engine. ;-)
Cheers, T i m
Often seen on TV as a "interior designer" solution to lighting.
Pretty well the same design of light can be mains or 12v. In tungsten days, the LV was more efficient, and the bulbs lasted longer.
I've still got quite a few 12v tungsten. Never had a problem with flickering. If changing to 12v LED causes flickering, no big deal to change the fittings to the mains variety.
In a pure living area, you may not want or need excellent working light. Although I prefer to have the choice.
Say no more. ;-)
If all you need with lighting is to avoid tripping over things it's easy to do. ;-)
Quite.
That's why we still(?) have 2 x 6' flouros in the kitchen and whilst working (on the Home Automation system as well), no plans to change them. Especially when I think the suggestion is that it's not worth going over to dedicated LED replacements on a purely financially (energy saving) basis. [1]
<snip>Cheers, T i m
[1] Mate replaced the 4 x 6' flouros for LED tube replacements a while back because he suffers from migraines under (some?) fluorescent light.He has since replaced the entire fittings with dedicated LED (Toolstation) to try to get more light but whoever ordered them can't measure and got 4 x 5' instead. ;-(
So now he has less light coverage and bits of ceiling to touch up. ;-(
He has offered me the LED 'tubes' and I said I'd like to have them, to try in the kitchen or use in the garage (if they are bright enough).
I'm willing to pay extra for the amount and quality of light I want. Which brings us back to lighting or just illumination.
I've been forced to go LED in places due to the tungsten I preferred being NLA. Add in the costs of replacing dimmers too, and it will take a long time to pay back via lower bills. And although they're getting closer, the light quality from LEDs still doesn't suit me as well as halogen.
I really hate that when they claim to have the same light output when any fool can see they're lying. But only after you've bought them.
I'd love to see some truly independent tests of LED versus decent florries. I've yet to see any which give the same quality and intensity. And think the claims for energy saving - like for like - vastly exaggerated.
Neither did I. Especially since I used one of them to load a 12V PSU ,carefully suspended at the edge of a table to avoid damage, and I found that it melted a plastic chair 15 cm below. :-) Murphy's law dictates that: Modern substitutes ,when mounted in hard to reach places, are prone to interfere with radios,PLC devices and even infrared remotes if you have any. :-)
I have a spotlight directly above my keyboard.
That is funny.
My outdoor front floodlight has failed. I have just stuck a 50W LED replacement up until I can get new control gear for the 35W CDM-T.
The 35W was brighter than the 50W and the CRI was much better. It's run as dusk till dawn and needed a new lamp every couple of years. At £15 a lamp it seemed a fair trade off.
That outside light is 20 years old and as it has no ferrous components it has no rust.
Ouch! I use banks of car headlamp bulbs wired in series-parallel (cuts the voltage down across each lamp and so the brightness / heat) to discharge batteries and really do need to properly mount them on the ally sheet they are currently resting on. They are all terminated in single pole, Anderson PowerPole connectors so I can easily mix-n-match to cater for most battery / pack voltages and discharge loads.
I had a BC22 LED lamp fail the other day and I've got as far and breaking the glass dome off so I can see / get to the LED's themselves (I can). It was running hot and I was drawn to learn that by investigating the smell of hot electronics (quickly followed by it flickering a few times and then cutting out completely).
It has a fairly substantial fluted ally heatsink section between the bayonet fitting and LED plate so was probably an older design / expensive / high power one?
Cheers, T i m
On Sat, 03 Apr 2021 14:34:47 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)" snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk> wrote: <snip>
Yeah, same here in some instances.
Quite. I think most people only need illumination and will / may go for more specific lighting where required.
Yeah.
I agree in many instances, especially where you are looking for a lot of light (in conventional domestic forms). Having lights you can easily aim can be handy and I have an LED one (Ikea possibly) on a flexy-gooseneck clipped on one on the desk here. In most cases it just creates some background light but is also handy for pointing at things I need a good / close look at, often with the addition of a magnifier. ;-)
<snip>
Snap ... although I think we now sorta 'expect' that to be the case don't we?
This was why 1) I haven't changed mine in the kitchen yet and 2) was interested to try these from my mate, not only for the actual light level but the general illumination. Like, if they only have downward facing LEDs, how much light do I currently enjoy that has been reflected off the fitting, (white) ceiling or cupboards?
Especially when compared against fluorescent (inc CFL) etc.
I even thought about fitting high frequency gear in the existing fittings as that might make them start quicker but the electronic starters seem to have that down to one blink and on. In most cases the lights are already on by the time I'm a pace into the kitchen (and that's including the Zigbee PIR (in a 3D printed round case stuck in the middle of the kitchen ceiling) picking up my movement as I go in from the hall and the RPi telling the WiFi switch to turn on). ;-)
Cheers, T i m
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