I have a couple probs I need help on:
1) When my cloths washer empties, it fills pipe so fast that it spills
over on to floor. This waste pipe is not vented. Does it have to be
vented in order to drain or do I have a clog. I have poured draino
down it a couple times.
2) How do you hook up a dishwasher without a disposal? Can I just hook
the dishwasher to air gap and air gap to drain(1 1/2" drain pipe with
Thanks for help.
First, your standpipe for the clothes washer needs to be 2" in
diameter and it needs to be vented, yes. If you don't have it vented,
forget it. It will never drain properly without a vent.
If you don't have a garbage disposal, you can buy a 1-1/2" tailpiece
for your kitchen sink drain. The 1-1/2" tailpiece will have a little
side inlet where you connect the dishwasher hose. You will need to
supply your water from the hot side. I prefer sweating in a tee and
installing a separate stop valve for the dishwasher. You'll need to
buy a "dishwasher ell" (1/2" thread x 3/8" compression) to connect
your water line.
When you drill a hole in the cabinet for the drain, drill the hole as
far to the top as you can drill it. Specifically, the code requires
that you attach the hose to the underside of the countertop. In my
area, our inspectors allow us to drill a hole up towards the top
instead of physically attaching the hose to the underside of the
At the very least, you need to pull a homeowners permit and get this
thing inspected. If you don't get it inspected, good luck getting
insurance to pay in the event something goes wrong and you flood the
is there a way I can vent it without having to tear my wall out? The
standpipe is 2" and is stubed right through the floor about 32" high
and has a trap under floor before it "Y,s" into main. I was told they
sometimes use a vent, I think it is called a studavent, for kichen
islands. Is there a way I could incorperate that into washer drain?
So I dont need an airgap for dishwasher? is this something they just
use for disposal/dishwasher combo?
As far as permit I am in a millhouse and have very little money. It
has been leaking and has caused damage so anything I do will only
help. I take it you are a plumbing inspector, regardless it is very
cool of you to take the time to answer everyones questions.
Well it isn't exactly code, but if you can get underneath and cut in a
tee between the trap and the main. Turn the tee facing straight up.
Put a piece of pipe into the tee and bring the tee as high as you can
bring it. On the top of that piece of pipe, install a studor vent.
Make sure you don't jam the studor vent so close to the bottom of the
subfloor that you don't have access. The studor has a male thread and
will screw into the female adapter that is packaged with the device.
The device will cost about $25.
This installation is not exactly to code, but it should help you with
your problem. In my own house, I would replace the entire system - new
washer box, upsize my pipe to 2" and take my vent pipe up inside the
wall. If termination was a problem, I woudl install a wall box to vent
the washing machine.
The old pipe you have installed now is probably 1-1/2" pipe. The
plumbers around here run into this situation all the time. What
happens when you use an 1-1/2" pipe is that the entire line gets
overloaded from the pump on the washing machine. Because the pipe is
overloaded (even if you have a wet vent from another fixture -
something that is not allowed by current code), you end up cutting off
your vent with all that water.
The new up-and-coming 2005 code is going the direction of requiring a
full 3" line to serve a washing machine because the newer machine move
such a large volume of water. With the newer machines, there are
systems that have been installed to code that experience drainage
issues because of inadequate air. We work on code issues every single
Plumbers and other trades bitch about codes and inspections. The truth
of the matter is that these codes have been developed over millions
of real-life installations where problems are reported through
insurance companies, homeowners, contractors, and plumbers. I see the
engineering getting better and better every year.
I'm trying to push through some code issues right now. My complaint is
with commercial fixture installation. These guys in the field are
piping their hot lines to code. But when you hook up a hot
distribution line to a lavatory...and the lavatory is giving you
1/2-gallon per minute, we end up getting lots of complaints because
the owners think the plumber has shorted them. They complain because
they have NO HOT WATER. In truth, the hot water is there. It just
takes forever and a day for the hot water to push all the cooler water
out of the line to a lavatory...especially problematic with a 1/2
gallon per minute aerator.
anyways - good luck with it.
On 31 May 2004 18:52:57 -0700, email@example.com (Derek) wrote:
The lack of a vent rarely causes a backup, but it causes other
problems. Are you sure there's not a blockage problem? If you are, then it
might be that modern washers pump out water faster than older ones. That's
why codes had recently increased the drain to 2". Also, is the drain
plastic, or some other material?
Mike, venting problems frequently DO and WILL cause backups.
Especially on a clothes washer.
Increasing the size of pipe serving a clothes washer to 2" has proven
a step in the right direction. However, it didn't completely resolved
issues that have resulted from the newer style high volume pumps they
are putting on these newer clothes washers.
The newest version of the code which you may see as early as 2005 will
require that a clothes washer be installed with a 3" drain serving the
fixture. And as you are already aware, current code requires that the
clothes washer be separately vented.
I just had one,,, A brand new washer, installed by Sears into 1 1/2 drain.
it pumped so hard, so fast, that the hose pushed out of the 1 1/2 standpipe
After 3 attempts to repair it to keep from coming out of the standpipe,
Sears told her to call her plumber.
On the end of the new washer waste hose was a unique adapter to hold it
tight into the 1 1/2 standpipe. Extra ears, like rubber holds, to keep it
Im all for the 3" and all new construction i do specific for washers are now
I bought the house with a 1-1/2" standpipe attached to a trap made up from
galvanized elbows. As expected, my new washing machine caused the standpipe to
overflow. Eventually I replaced the mess with 2" PVC but for awhile I got by
partially pinching the discharge hose with a C-clamp.
I've never heard of anyone reducing the flow from the washing machine
by pinching the hose. Sounds like it would work. However, I'd be
worried that pinching the flow could put a strain on that pump and
burn it out.
But what the hell. Sometimes ya just gotta go with what works. Clever
solution by the way.
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