The main water pipe that brings water into my house burst open due to
the water freezing. Fortunately no one was living in the house at the time.
The tear is not very big only 1" in length. This house is old and the pipe
is only a 3/4" line of soft copper. The break is only 1" from the basement
wall on a curve in the pipe so a ordinary pipe clamp will not work. My
is what would be the best way to repair it.
I was thinking that first I should break open the brick around the pipe
to give me more pipe
to work on. Can I use a repair coupling and just solder a new piece of pipe
to the old? This is
soft copper and the pipe may have a curve to it making it difficult for a
coupling to fit the old
pipe. The old pipe had a compression fitting on the end instead of
soldering maybe I should
just cut off the bad piece and flare the new end and try this. But remember
that I really do not
have a lot of pipe to work with (only 1" sticking out of the wall).
Or do I have to cut the pipe at all. I saw a new product on the market
uses a "air" activated fiberglass tape from a company called DuraPower
Products Inc. it is a tape that you dip in water
and then wrap around the pipe. It cures forming a patch that is suppose to
pressure of 150 lbs and a temperature of 600 degrees. Does anyone know
anything about this?
Any help or suggestions that anyone can give me would be greatly
appreciated. Thank you,
I have no experience using the water leak tape you mentioned. But I
know for certain that product is not code.
Without seeing your leak, I would suggest that you walk around the
front of the house and dig down to the water line. Cut the water line.
Patch in a piece of new copper using a coupling on the outside and a
coupling on the inside.
If you have access to the break in your pipe without digging, Home
Depot sells long sections of copper designed to make the repair you
are wanting to make. The sections of copper are simply long couplings.
They're pretty handy for fixing the type of damage you are talking
about. You just cut out the bad section and use this one long
coupling. Sweat it in and you're good to go.
A compression coupling could also be used. I personally don't use
compression couplings at all except in very rare circumstances where I
can't use my torch. Nothing wrong with a compression fitting. I just
don't trust them the way I do a good clean bead of solder.
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