Getting to that impossible tap nut - what finally worked for me

Oct 19, 2026 Last reply: 10 hours ago 5 Replies
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Spent a whole Saturday morning flat on my back under the kitchen sink last year swapping out a tap, so I know exactly how maddening that brass nut can be. The supply pipes always seem to sit right where you need your hand to go, and the cabinet wall eats up half your swing. What saved me was a basin wrench, the long-handled kind with the spring-loaded jaw at the end. It reaches up over the pipes and grips the nut from above, and the handle pivots so you can turn it even when there's barely any room.



The trick is patience with the first turn. That nut has been sitting there for years and it will feel welded on. Get the jaw seated properly, put steady pressure on, and expect to move it in tiny nudges rather than one smooth swing. Once it cracks loose it usually spins off easy. If the jaw keeps slipping, a shot of penetrating oil and ten minutes of waiting helps more than you'd think.



One other thing I learned the hard way: turn the water off at the mains before you start, not just at the isolating valves under the sink, because those little slots can be worn half round. And have a towel and a shallow tray ready, because there's always leftover water in the pipes no matter how long you let it drain.


I fought with one of those long tools for a good hour on our bathroom basin last winter and honestly gave up on it. My hands were too cramped in there and the head kept sliding off the fitting every time I leaned on it. What ended up working was just lying down with my head halfway inside the cabinet and using a short adjustable spanner I could hold almost flat against the nut. Took longer per turn but it never slipped once.

The other thing that made a huge difference was warming the fitting first. That joint had probably not been touched since the nineties and it was seized solid. I held a hairdryer on it for a few minutes, nothing dramatic, just enough heat to wake things up, then it cracked free on the second nudge instead of the fiftieth. Agree on draining though, I skipped the tray my first attempt and spent ten minutes mopping up the trickle that kept coming out of the old tails. Now I stuff a rag in each open pipe while I'm working, stops the drip and stops any small fittings falling down into the void under the cabinet.

If you're binning the old tap anyway, don't fight the nut at all. I keep a mini pipe cutter in the van and just cut through the old copper tails about an inch below the tap, then spin the stub out of the nut by hand once it's loose. Did that on a 1970s bungalow kitchen last month and saved myself about half an hour of swearing. Works a treat as long as you've got enough pipe sticking down to grip the new tap's nut later.

First time posting here so hope this is the right place. My situation was slightly diffrent, the nut I was after was one of those plastic ones on a newer mixer tap, and I nearly rounded the flats off with a grips-style wrench before realising they only need to be snug, not hammer tight. Ended up doing the last few turns by hand and it sealed fine. Is that normal for the plastic ones, or did I just get lucky? Everything on my old sink was brass so I'm used to leaning on things a lot harder than that.

I totally agree with the part about having to get into awkward positions and just using a short spanner. Sometimes the tools you think you need just don't fit the space, and that short, ugly adjustable spanner is the only thing that works without rounding the flats off. The real trick I found, though, is stabilizing the assembly before you start turning. If the supply pipe is loose in the wall or frame, it wants to spin away from you when you put force on the nut. I always wrap a small hose clamp around the pipe closest to the joint to keep the whole thing from twisting while I'm working it loose.

Update: the penetrating oil idea worked, left it overnight and the old nut finally cracked loose with the basin wrench. Now the opposite problem, the new tap came with one of those plastic back nuts and I nearly overtightened it before reading the point about them only needing to be snug. How do you judge snug by feel when you're working blind up there?

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