How to use a Crescent Wrench

Thinking about this with no preconceptions. In practice a spanner makes contact on the corners of the nut not the flats.. Using the spanner the way your foreman taught you means that the distance from the point of effort to the corner of the nut in contact with the moveable jaw is less than using it the other way round.so less force should be applied.,

Exactly why I wouldn't agree that a ring spanner or socket set is the preferred tool to use. Not practical for a handyman to carry.

Never heard of either argument, but I'm very tempted to get one of these

lever on the wrong side so that it is impossible to use the spanner in the manner that I am suggesting is the strongest.

Sometimes I have access to the perfect tool for the job (e.g. ring spanner). It's then very frustrating when I can't find it!

If access allows whatever way to attach the spanner to the nut I really don't matter as long as the nut comes undone does it?

In very tight areas I use a quality Tap wrench spanner, ( Removable end crescent grip style) especially when I am changing Hydraulic hoses on a valve block on the cranes I fix as they are so close together.

Oh. Now that is interesting. I can't see a company with the experience, knowledge & research facilites of Stanley Tools getting something that wrong. I wonder if they were aware of it?

Let's not forget that the same knowledge and experience has brought us some real gems in recent times, such as:

Don't misunderstand - I think they still make some great tools, such as:

But it does seem to be slightly hit and miss.

As for adjustable spanners, I think Matty F is correct, and the Wikipedia article is wrong.

|Matty F wrote: |> There's a difference of opinion among the handymen that I meet about |> which way to use a Crescent on a nut. Of course a ring spanner or |> socket set is the preferred tool to use, but sometimes the right size |> tool is not available. | |Exactly why I wouldn't agree that a ring spanner or socket set is the |preferred tool to use. Not practical for a handyman to carry. | |Never heard of either argument, but I'm very tempted to get one of these |

Go on, then - what do you particularly like about it? You know you want to tell us :-)

I often need to undo large rusted nuts of non-standard sizes. I don't want to damage the wrench. I don't care much about the nuts because they will probably be replaced. I imagine that if the wrench is used the wrong way the jaws will open more and cause it to slip on the nut.

It's a very sturdy hacksaw, with a quick-change for the blade. You can tension the blade much higher than you can on the old-style hacksaws, which makes for easier cutting. Soft grip handle, and solid steel frame. Miles ahead of any other I've ever used.

Thanks. How is it for accuracy - esp holding the whole blade accurately parallel to the frame, without letting it twist?

Because of the tension you can apply to the blade, it is very good in this respect.

I've never given this a thought, and have never had a problem.

Sylvain (retired motor mechanic).

What compliments it is this, a ratchet adjustable:

When doing compression joints these two are superb. Most plumbers use water pump pliers with serrated jaws to tighten up, chewing the flats. These tools do not. The lockable can hold the body of the fitting while the ratchet can tighten the nut. Also using two lockables does it just as easy. Tightening up chrome fitting with the lockable ensures no damage.

You have to develop the technique of using them and once mastered it is easy to do. The lockable is one of my most used tools and flicking in and out of the lock mechanism is second nature.

You are working with tools for a living so get high quality hand tools of top design. It also impresses the customer. The old saying of a you judge a tradesman by the quality and condition of his tools is very true, and people do look at them. Also use good quality clean tool boxes too. It adds to your image. Power tools can be cheap depending on use.

spanner will have some slack and force is equally applied to static and adjustable jaw.

Thanks again - you've made a sale.

I like this:

Sparky are a German company that make professional power tools in a Bulgarian ex AEG factory. Sparky are one of the best know brands in Russian and the old eastern block..and Germany and Austria too. They compete with Bosch and Makita over there. The naff DIYish name will prevent serious sales here. The rebadge kit for UK home name suppliers and have done for 10 years only selling the Sparky brand for a year in the UK. They also sell componenet to the makor power tool makers as well, so your Bosch may be full of Sparky components. BTW, Screwfix sell a Sparky Impact driver with two

I saw B&Q have a similar Lith Ion driver for around £15-17.

Stanley Toolboxes are crap.

I find myself in agreement with you once again - I'll try not to let it happen too often. I've looked at a few Sparky tools, and on the whole they seem quite well made. I don't know what their service/support is like though.

The 26" Irwin blue ones are just about the best toolboxes around atm IMHO. Incredibly tough.

Please do not. Just accept what I say without thought, it is better that way.

Screwfix sell them, so I supose they must be decent.

In Screwfix Makita are selling for £140 a 12v Impact driver, drill driver and 3 batts. That is £40 for a Makita drill driver over the Sparky Impact Driver price. If you need the driver of course. The also sell the same Makita Impact Driver for £200 with two 3.0Ahr batteries. Big price difference.

What price and where?