Since the liner is allready down and tested, you're past the scariest part, but don't just dump wet concrete in there. You need a dry pack mortar, often called deck mud, wich is a specific 4-to-1 ratio of sand to portland cement. It shold feel like damp sand that holds its shape when you squeeze it. Before you start packing it down, make sure you put some small pea gravel or plastic spacers around the base of the drain. This keeps the weep holes clear so any water that gets past your tile can actually drain out instead of rotting your subfloor. Start packing the mud from the walls toward the drain, maintaining a steady slope of about a quarter-inch per foot. You want it firm enought to walk on once it's set. When you get to the wall tiles, don't worry about a massive gap; just make sure your mud bed sits high enough so your floor tile ends up tucked slightly under that bottom row of wall tile. It's more about the slope than the volume of grout you use later. Just take your time tamping it down even so you don't end up with low spots in the corners.
A quick guide to finishing a shower pan for beginners
Aug 27, 2026
Last reply: 6 hours ago
4 Replies
I followed these steps last weekend for my guest bath remodel using Quikrete Sand/Topping mix with some extra Portland cement. The 4-to-1 ratio really is the sweet spot. I almost added too much water at first, but keeping it at that snowball consistency made it way easier to screed. I used a scrap piece of 2x4 to pack it down, and putting the pea gravel around the Oatey drain base gave me peace of mind because those weep holes looked like they would clog instantly without it. One thing I learned the hard way was the slope near the corners. I thought I had my quarter-inch per foot dialed in, but I ended up with a slight dip near the back corner. I had to pull some mud back up and retamp it before it started setting. I used a 2-foot level and just kept spinning it around the drain like a clock hand to check for those low spots. For the edges, I actualy let my mud bed sit a little lower than the bottom of the wall studs because I was using a thicker porcelain mosaic tile. If I had gone higher, I would have had a wierd transition. Just remember to account for your thinset height too. It took about 24 hours before I felt safe standing on it to check the pitch one last time.
Spot on with the clock hand trick for the level. I've seen way too many guys eyeball the corners and end up with a puddle. One thing I'd add is to throw a bit of duct tape over the drain opening before you start dumping the mud. It sounds silly, but a tiny pebble of that dry pack falling down into the trap can be a nightmare to fish out once the mortar starts to harden around the pipe. Also, if you’re using a wood curb, make sure you wrap that liner over it completly so the mud bed doesn't suck the moisture right into the framing.
I'm just starting to wrap my head around this, but how do you know if you've got the 'snowball' consistency right? I'm terrified of making it too wet and ruining the whole thing. Also, when you guys mention the weep holes and pea gravel, does it matter what kind of gravel it is? I saw some 'all-purpose' stones at the store but wasn't sure if they'd be too big. I realy don't want to mess up the drainage before I even get to the tile part.
Listen to the boys about the dry pack, but don't overthink the gravel. Back in the day, we'd just grab a handful of clean crushed stone from the driveway if we had to. As long as it's bigger than the weep holes, it'll keep 'em breathing. For that snowball test, if your hand stays soaking wet, you've gone too far. It shoud just leave a little dust and moisture on your palm. Also, keep a spray bottle of water handy. If the top starts drying out too fast while you're still screeding, a light mist keeps it workable. I've seen guys try to fix a dry top by pouring a bucket on it—don't do that unless you want a muddy mess.
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