OK , the stove produces massive quantities of heat - sometimes . This
morning it wasn't doing so great , like it couldn't breath . I got a wire
and cleaned the ashes from the grate from below , and now it's once again
producing a lot of heat . I don't think I should have to go thru that every
day , but don't know why it's plugging like that . I burn only oak , white
and red . Unfortunately it's not well seasoned , as I didn't really plan to
heat with wood . Is that maybe why it's plugging ?
This is a King Circulator stove , controlled <supposedly> by a thermo
spring that opens and closes an inlet damper . I plan on picking up a flue
damper today to install , as I'm much more familiar with that method of
control . I just know that we can't continue this overheat then freeze cycle
we've been experiencing .
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I would be cautious about a flue damper as they can cause problems. A fire
that is burning well will find a way to get the smoke to get out the stove
if you try closing the flue, and it may smoke out the room. I understand
that a flue damper is used when cold to reduce downdrafts that result in
smelly air being drawn down the chimney, or when hot to reduce a strong
updraft that is causing the fire to burn excessively hot.
Well , that is the design intent , but it ain't workin' like I would
think - as in close the inlet and it gets cooler . Seems that when I turn it
"down" it gets hotter . I think that this might be because it's holding the
heat in the stove instead of letting it out the flue pipe , but shouldn't
restricting air flow also cool the fire somewhat ? This thing is oversize
for our current heated area and I knew that when I bought it <great deal ,
200 bucks including everything needed to hook it up> but I expected to be
able to regulate the output much better . I hate opening a window to cool
things off , that's just throwing heat away and I don't like cutting and
splitting wood just to toss the heat out the window .
On 12/27/2013 8:49 AM, Snag wrote:
This thing is oversize
Did they put in a damper? Have you called them and asked them to come
check it out? They are usually pretty good about that, as it covers
their *** should something not be just right. Wood stoves are simple,
unless something basic has been overlooked, and that is possible.
The stove is a King Circulator , and since I got it used there are no
directions . My neighbor up the hill <across the little dirt road> has one
just like it , he hasn't got a flue damper either . By starting a bit
earlier in the day and getting a good hot fire before stoking it up for the
night I managed to keep it above 70* here all night last night . Feels good
! and the humidity that's plagued us in the camper is way down now that
we're using wood .
On Sun, 29 Dec 2013 10:17:46 -0500, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I've been running a Vermont Casting stove for 30+ years with no
damper. Properly designed, the supply side can fine tune very well.
It maintains the temperature within a couple of degrees and I rarely
have to change it.
I'm sure that it does, Snag, but stop for a minute and think this through...
From where does the stove draw it's combustion air? Correct the first
time, THE ROOM. It isn't drawing it down the flue and then shooting the
smoke and waste gases up that same flue.
If you choke off the flue when the fire's burning, you're going to be
venting those gases back into the room.
On 12/28/2013 1:33 PM, Unquestionably Confused wrote
Right - o. Some stoves use a two pipe chimney pipe, the outer annulus
brings in air for combustion, the inner takes out the exhaust. They
have an adjustment so room air can be added to the fire, but it uses
very little room air, hence are very efficient. I found out about them
after I built a house with a two sided see through fireplace, which was
a beautiful nightmare. Looked beautiful with it's Apache Paint stone,
one from Arizona with blue stringers of copper ore, and some copper
colored stringers of some other element. Never did get it burning
right, though. Sealed up the used brick side with a glass fireplace
cover, and a lot of caulking and ingenuity. The other side was too
uneven with no flat surface. Had to open a window to use it, and that
defeated any using of the fireplace to heat the place. Had I kept the
house, I would have installed an insert that drew outside air for
If you don't have a flue damper, get one. It will greatly improve the
performance of your stove, and your firewood won't burn up as fast.
Once you find the right settings, your wood will burn long and hot and
Partially right. Downdrafts have a cause. Identify that cause, and
solve it, and you will get rid of the smoking. Sometimes, just opening
a door to the outside can cause a downdraft. If enough smoke comes out
to smoke out the room, you have waited too long to address the problem,
the flue may be plugged, or as I said, a door or window is open
somewhere. Or, could be the configuration of the house, or the height of
the top of the chimney in relation to other parts of the structure that
cause vortexes that can work against exhausting gases. Also, it takes a
little while for the stove to get hot, and for the natural heating of
air and steel to create the natural updraft of warm air.
A word of caution here. Watch your chimney cap. Birds will nest in
there during the warmer months, and you won't know until you build a
fire. The birds will take off, but the nest will be there, creating
some blockage. I have a pipe, and I put hardware cloth around it so
they can't get in there. They like nesting in there.
Rather than a flue damper, maybe you need a flue brush. You mention the
wood is not too well seasoned. If that is the case, it may be putting
some creosote in the flue and is hampering the fire from lack of
circulation. If the stove is capable of generating a lot of heat, the
fix is not to add a flue damper, it is to fix the real problem.
You may be getting more ash and clog because the fire is not as hot as
it potentially can be. Check the flue all the way out. Keep some wood
near the stove so it can dry a bit faster for the next load.
The flue is clean all the way to the top . The used pipe was thoroughly
cleaned before I installed it . Your observation that the fire isn't as hot
as it should be may have merit , however . I do know the stove is capable of
massive output , my neighbor up the hill has an identical stove and it heats
his whole house nicely .
Maybe my solution is to feed it less and more often ? I know that Patrick
<neighbor> loads his up and turns the control all the way to "cool" and has
no problems like the one I'm having - and night before last I did just that
and we were toasty-warm all night . Last night I did the same and it was way
cooler than I wanted this morning . Mama wasn't happy ...
And my wood is stacked about 3 feet from the stove , for just the reason
you suggested that . I just hope I get this thing under control before the
wife strangles me !
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