Zootal wrote: ...
Under those circumstances, perhaps not on the heat loss -- I was thinking of the conventional storm since you have such an issue w/ driving rain, in particular w/ the energy gain a secondary benefit.
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dpb wrote: ...
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The advantage of the CMT is that you can make the long tenon since it has the stub bit that none of the others do that I'm aware of other than the very high-end shaper cutters designed for stub spindles.
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I've had great results with silicone caulk, for sealing cracks around, or below windows. Have to treat it like toxic waste until it's dry. And then remove it with a razor blade as needed.
Carry a plastic bag. When the tube is empty, stuff the tube into the plastic bag. May need to wear disposable gloves, if you tend to get the stuff on your hands.
I havn't tried glazing (the term for packing putty to hold a window into the frame) with silicone caulk, but it should work. Remove by slicing with a razor blade to get the glass out. Remember the glazier's points before glazing.
For unheated cellar, probably not worth multi pane windows for heat. I'd seriously consider plexiglass. With holes drilled, and screwed to the outside. Partly draft, heat, and partly keep water off the windows.
Putting silicone caulk on a window for glazing is worse than letting it leak :o) Yuck! The window and the little quarter-rounds are pretty, and if properly maintained will probably be fine. A little glazing compound to seat the glass would help seal them up....with a decently done job of priming and painting they will probably be weatherproof. That is assuming the paint job is maintained.
Eww. Ugly :)
It makes no sense at all to try to restore windows like these in a house that isn't on the National Register of Historic Landmarks. Your two logical choices are: 1) Replace with a good quality vinyl basement window with whatever features you deem important. 2) For windows that will never need opening replace window with glass blocks. Trying to restore what you have is an exercise in futility. Consider that many building codes are now requiring 'egress windows' in basements that do or could have any living facilities in them, so you could be ahead of the game in that respect should you opt for it. It is prudent to use your time, talent and money on things that have some reasonable practical value; anything else is just entertainment.
Joe
Joe wrote: ...
That makes _no_ sense at all...either of those options is way more expensive than repairing what he has and once done they'll last a long time.
The egress thing is strawman; OP has already indicated it is unheated space therefore it isn't living space and it would take far more than simply replacing the windows themselves for those to become adequate.
I'd say it's "prudent" to be prudent and not spend money needlessly...
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I see nothing futile about it. I'm simply fixing a window. What you are suggesting is the equivalent of replacing your car simply because it has a flat tire.
My window is on the side of the house, not visible from the street or entrance so cosmetics make no difference. It must have been at least 10 years and I had replaced glass with Lucite acrylic sheet as someone had broken the window with a ball.
Zootal wrote: ...
Agreed.
Did you check out the hardware/building supply places for DAP 33 glazing compound yet?
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No, I put it on hold a few days. As I was cleaning the frame, I realized that the bottom wood piece was rotted much worse then I originally thought and needs to be replaced. I can make one of these, as they don't require a router jig or table. I don't have a router bit that will do a rabbet deep enough, so I'm off to HomeDepot tomorrow for wood and router bits. I might do the sides also, since they are easy to do. Fortunately the cross pieces are good, as I don't have the setup to make those.
And I'll definitely check for DAP 33 glazing compound. The glazing compound I have is acrylic something or other.
Zootal wrote: ...
OK, sounds good...if you get a chance and are interested, post the actual product brand/name and I'll see if I know anything specific about it...
As I say, I've used quite a number but I'm sure there are some I've not ( :) ) as well...but a couple of the others I have used I either didn't like at all for various problems/reasons and one that is in the end a good product I don't think is a good choice for a neophyte because it is difficult to use correctly primarily because it sets up so quickly one can't work it like one can normal compound or even caulks.
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This is what I have on my shelf:
DAP "Alex plus", Acrylic latex caulk plus silicone, "35 yr. durability guarantee". And it's almond colored, which doesn't match anything I have - why did I get almond colored?
ACE White glazing compound. "Glazing Compound is a siliconized acrylic formula that is used to replace old or brlken windowpanes..."
I also found a tube of what appears to be ordinary latex caulk.
What I suggested was like replacing your car because the engine/ transmission failed. It will take a year or two but you will be replacing the failed windows again, bet on it.
Joe
Joe wrote: ...
I haven't seen anything but the pictures and have a _lot_ of original windows much older than these and would still disagree that it's necessarily so that when repaired they'll not last quite a long time.
And, one can generally repair/replace a transmission/engine still for quite significantly less expenditure than for a whole new automobile.
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When my engine or transmission fails, I fix it, I don't replace the car. When a tire goes flat, I fix it, I don't replace the tire. When my windows break, I fix them, I don't replace them with a new window unit.
I have a close relative, however, that is the opposite - he doesn't fix anything, he just replaces it. Dirty laundry? Go to the store and buy new underwear. Go figure :
I have a 1994 Subaru with about 147,000 miles on it. The auto trannies are known for lasting about 150,000 miles or so. When it goes, I will replace it. The car was paid for a long time ago and runs just fine. And if the engine goes, I'll fix it or replace it. In the end, I'll get another ten years of life from this car for a fraction of the cost replacing the car. I once made the mistake of trading in my old Datsun as part of the purchase of a brand new Ford Tempo. The Ford went to the junk yard before the Datsun did.
Zootal wrote: ...
Ayup... :)
Many use the excuse of "major" repair to justify the purchase of a new vehicle (shoot, even I have been know to do so when I really wanted a new one all along :) ) but it rarely actually works out on paper in hard cash to be the less expensive choice.
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I bought the only lemon ever made by Datsun....everything that could fall off did by the time it was three years old...weather strip, chrome, knobs. Rusted out by the time it was five years old. Sold it and it was still running 10 years later :o)
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