Basement Window Replacement

[a]

I am planning on replacing a rotten wood window in our concrete foundation.

I don't need the window to open so I was wondering if I could use 4 pieces of treated 1X8 to form a box that just slides into the opening & fasten it with a couple of concrete screws. I would install a glass stop on all 4 sides with 1/4 round then have a sealed triple pane glass unit made up to fit & seal it in place with silicone.

Two questions:

Do I have to slope the lower sill to allow water to run off?

and

Is 1X8 stock good enough (or should I be using 2X8)?

Thanks

[Joseph Meehan]

I would want the ability to open a vent of some kind, even if you don't do it often.

If you choose not to offer a vent, then why not glass block? You can even add a vent to them, good security and light.

Yes, you need to slope the lower sill no matter what you do.

[Buck Turgidson]

You should verify egress requirements with your local building code office. Some require egress ability for fire code reasons. I don't know if a fixed window meets those requirements.

I recently installed a vinyl hopper purchased at home depot, per the link below. I special-ordered it about 1/4" less than the rough dimensions, and just screwed it with Tapcons/shims right into the masonry. I foamed the gap and caulked around it.

[Artie]

I want to remove my old basement windows and replace them with vinyl slider types. The old ones are steel frame, hopper type and the concrete foundation is poured around the steel frames (buck) on 3 sides and the top is tight to the wood sill. The concrete is sloped on both sides and the bottom, inside and out, and after I remove the old frames I will have a channel in the concrete on 3 sides. I want to frame out the rough opening for the windows with pressure treated lumber but how would you do it with the channel and all those angles from the slopes in the concrete? Any help is appreciated.

[Joe]

FWIW, the vinyl basement windows I used a couple of years ago didn't need any framing. They were not two section sliding type, though, rather the top opening type. I installed them by building up the opening to the exact window size with mortar and brick. The top piece (wood) I left until the mortar surround around the unit had set. It was easy to make nice slopes inside and out for appearance and shedding water. Slicing brick pieces to size was readily done with a modest priced diamond blade in my circular saw. The vinyl to mortar bond is quite good and still looks perfect today. HTH.

Joe