You cannot check torque on a nut that is already tightened to it's torque spec. You must use the torque wrench to tighten "up to" torque.
You cannot check torque on a nut that is already tightened to it's torque spec. You must use the torque wrench to tighten "up to" torque.
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As were drum brakes. I think the prime driving force that forced ( so to speak :) ) them into being somewhat more careful was the complaints received of brake pedal jitter/bounce caused by over-torque.
imo, $0.02, etc., etc., etc., ...
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I don't torque my lugnuts. I torque my house.
Harbor Freight sent me one of their endless catalogs, this one with a device to, it claims, provide 30 times as much torque to remove lugnuts. For 20 dollars. I'll admit, I needed it once, in 45 years, and ruined a tire when I couldnt get it off to put on the spare. But I guess that is no reason to buy one now. But if I changed tires for other people it might be worht it, if it works.
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Hi, of course. Impact wrench is just to speed up the work. Once nut contacts rim, switch to torque wrench finish it off.
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How the f*ck do you ruin a tire while removing lugnuts?
If you want a better tool to remove lugnuts, get a 1/2" breaker bar and a socket.
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I didn't do it then. I did it when I had to drive the gas station with the flat tire still on.
Is that really as good as this?:
Assuming this is made well enough that it won't break soon.
And a length of pipe over the handle and jump on it. That's how I loosened the lug bolts on my Karmann Ghia.
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I fear you are underestimating the problem. You may be able to get accurate torque using your method, but many people can not.
Improper torque can damage the rotor or the wheel. It can cause the loss of a wheel (usually only when someone leaves them finger tight). It can cause an accident in some cases.
I recommend using a known good torque wrench to tighen the lugs. It is not hard to do, so why not. I had some work done at a national chain tyre center and was very supprised and pleased to watch them use the air wrench to snug the lugs, but then use a real torque wrench to tighten them. Usuall I end up redoing them as soon as I get home.
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Unless you are a toddler, you can easily generate 4-500 ft-lbs jumping on a 18" breaker bar. That'll loosen any lugnut.
That's the problem. I doubt it would work twice before breaking. It a ratchet can't take that kind of torque, why would you expect that toy's mechanism to be able to take it?
does that include beef byproducts?
ide quoted text -
re: "You cannot check torque on a nut that is already tightened to it's torque spec."
Well, you can certainly *check* it. ;-)
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re: "...you can easily generate 4-500 ft-lbs jumping on a 18" breaker bar. That'll loosen any lugnut."
...or snap any lug.
Jerking a wrench on *any* nut is a great way to snap *any* bolt.
re: "Snap them right off or ...."
The only time I have snapped lugs is when trying to get the lugnut off an overally tightened/rusted lug & nut combination.
My 97 Dodge Ram Van was the worse.
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quoted text -
You cannot tell if it is correct, however, which would be the point of checking. ;-)
I don't know about 1997, but on my 55 Dodge Royal Lancer Convertible and my 1964 Dodge Dart convertible, the lug nuts were right hand thread on one side of the car and left hand thread on the other side. Maybe that was the problem on your van!
Just the bullshit.
Maybe a little ketchup?
I told here once the story of letting the car sit in the snow with one hubcap missing, then having a flat in the spring at Newark airport and breaking 4 of the 5 studs, one I think by hand but the others by standing, not even jumping, on the lugwrench. Then driving to NYC with only one lug bolt holding the left rear wheel on.
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Glad you can tell the story.
Thank you.
I drove in the parking lot a bit before I left it. If it hadn't worked well, I would have stayed there. When the final lugbolt broke, just before lower Broadway in NYC, I barely noticed it. I was either stopped or going a mile or two per hour. And the full-size car only sagged a little bit, back at the left rear corner.
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