I agree with you! But it's too late for me. There is no vacuum attachment
anywhere, so the only vacuum that would work would be a wholly self
BTW, there 'is' an unused port that goes from the middle of the pool to
the pump area. It is capped off but I guess I 'could' put a pump there
(my fourth) and it would then act as a vacuum. But it would have to have
its own filter because there's already a filter loop.
Weird. Very weird. It took me a while to figure it out because everything
people told me didn't make sense when I had tested it (e.g., to use the
skimmers as a vacuum).
Well, truth be told, there is ... sort of.
It's a real bear, but ... I read the Paramount PCC2000 documentation
really carefully - over and over and over again ... and I found out you
CAN attach a vacuum to the debris canister!
But, it's a bear! You have to fill the hose with water and then very very
quickly (before the water leaks out), you shove the hose into the bottom
of the debris canister - and - if you're lucky - you get vacuum.
But, it seems you slow down the intake of water so the filter pump almost
goes dry - with huge bubbles of caviation or whatever in the pump basket.
So you're constantly going back and forth to the pump to check that it's
not dry while you're vacuuming with the hose that keeps popping out of
the debris canister and you have to prime the entire hose over and over
and over again.
At least that's what happens to me.
Here's where it says you can do hook a vacuum to the debris canister.
It works nice in the picture at that web page - but - in reality, it's a
real bear. My kids learn new swear words every time I try to get it going
as it's a 3-person operation ...
- Two people to prime the hose
- One person to vacuum
- And another to keep checking that the filter pump doesn't go dry
On Sun, 06 May 2012 21:28:30 +0000, Arklin K. wrote:
I finally figured it out!
The trick is to NOT set the tool too deeply into the popup head when
turning clockwise to remove (yes, clockwise).
When I set the tool deeply, it broke the tool.
When I set the tool shallow - it twisted the pop-up head the 1/8 turn
that releases it from the pool! Lesson learned!
Yuck. Yes. Mine was actually whitish blue after the $150 chemical
treatment ... but now it's bone dry!
If you were able to bring yours back to life, should should I be able to.
In the picture below you see all the green soupy slop I was shoveling out
yesterday. Now it's finally clean of green.
I will try to wash it with the 29% muriatic acid I bought from Leslies
How does this sound as a wash procedure?
Note: I gleaned this from multiple DIYs - many of which conflict!
0. Wear protective clothing & equipment & go section by section.
- goggles, mask, gloves, boots, + respirator (acid fumes are heavier than
air & you're standing in a big tub)
- don't acid wash a vinyl or above-ground pool (only plaster in-ground
- acid actually removes a very thin layer of the plaster, which is about
1.5 inches thick to start with
- some suggest washing and brushing with trisodiumphosphate (TSP) before
doing an acid wash
- don't let the TSP stay for too long
1. Set up a submersible pump in the deep end to pump out the acidified
- neutralize water with 2 pounds of soda ash for every gallon of 14.5% HCl
2. Pour one gallon of water into a pump sprayer
- never add water to acid
3. Add one gallon of 14.5% muriatic acid (HCl) to that one gallon of
water (I wonder if vinegar will work?)
- half a gallon if 29% HCl (each article has a different ratio - and some
even use it full strength!)
- some suggest 8% to 10% final concentration of muriatic acid
- one gallon of 10% solution will cover about 100 sq ft
4. Some say to add dish detergent to the mix
- this DIY says dish detergent is reputed to lessen the fumes
5. From above, spray the walls with water from a garden hose
- start at the deep end and work your way to the shallow end
- one 5-foor-wide or 10-foot-wide section at a time
6. Pour the acid/water mixture down the side of the pool
- having a helper topside is recommended
7. Wait 30 seconds for the acid to do its work, and then scrub the walls
with an acid brush
- some say to wait for the bubbling to stop
- all say to not allow the acid to stay for too long
- an acid brush has a wood handle with heavy bristles
8. Rince thoroughly with water
- ensure the submersible pump is pumping the neutrilized water out of the
deep end to a safe location
- make sure the water path doesn't etch a channel in the pool (keep
rinsing the path)
- some suggest a scrubbing with TSP to neutralize the acid
9. You may need to repeat
i'd make sure the respirator is rated for acids, or i'd get a positive
pressure respirator. you need a source for clean pressurized air for
this, or you could wear scuba equipment.
the fumes will eat anything metal in the area, including things outside
the plaster is very thin, maybe at most 1/4". underneath that is gunite
usually, which is a type of cement. gunite is also affected by acid, so
you don't want to eat through the plaster.
the acid will also leave the plaster a bit rougher, which will give
algae a place to start forming. that will make cleaning it later harder,
so you have to be more careful with your chemical balance.
only if it's dirty.
neutralize it before pumping. make sure it's an acid safe pump, and note
where you're pumping it to.
make sure it's an acid safe sprayer
i doubt this
the bubbling will stop when the calcium has neutralized all the acid,
and it's no longer acid.
btw: if you do this wrong, you can destroy the pool, and it can kill
you. some things are better left to people who have at least done this
once successfully before.
I'm still unsure if the white is calcium or if the white is the lack of
For example, here is a closeup of the blue and white.
The white on the tile must be a deposit of something.
The blue below it must be the pool plaster.
But what's the white below the blue?
I think I'm getting closer to figuring it out.
Today I pressure washed the pool (water only).
At one point, I deliberately stayed in one spot. Guess what?
The pool plaster turned blue!
That implies the white stuff is on top of the blue stuff. If that's the
case, then I need to figure out what the white stuff is.
Probably Calcium - but I'm just guessing. If it is calcium (it feels like
sand), then I 'guess' the acid wash (muriatic acid) is what gets rid of
Is that correct?
I'm beginning to think the pool was painted blue long ago.
Then, over time, the deposits of X (calcium?) built up.
The sides then turned, essentially, white.
Everywhere I kept the pressure hose, it turned darker blue ... so I think
it's the underlying paint that's blue.
I guess the good news is that I can remove whatever the white stuff is.
Everyone is assuming calcium - so I just have to figure out how to remove
calcium scale in a pool.
If it's an acid wash, well, then that's that.
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