Oh. My mistake. I understand now.
I have no idea 'what' the trucked-in water will consist of ... so that's
what you were trying to get at. Sorry for being dense. My fault.
But I think I'll go with the well water anyway as it's good pool water
I'll try to write with results later today.
On Sun, 06 May 2012 08:10:28 -0700, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
The blue algaecide was about $50
The chlorine shock was about $50 for a 24 pound box at Costco.
The bucket of 3" tablets was about $50 at Costco.
The muriatic acid was about $25 for a few gallons.
The clcium supplement was another $25 at Leslies.
And THEN there was the liquid chlorine from Home Depot at about $50 for
I've rounded all the numbers for the easy math but that's about $250
already, of which more than half was put into the pool - so that's where
the rough number came from.
Not to mention 24/7 use of two 10-amp 240v 1.65HP pumps to clean the pool
(since one pump can't work alone - this pool requires two due to the
lousy self-cleaning system).
No way I'd be paying $$$ for algaecide and $$$ for shock.
I put 5 gallons of 12% liquid chlorine into a 48,000 gallon
pool and it kills everything. There are algae that are harder
to kill, but I don't believe the common green one is one of
them. Even if you put 15 gallons of liq chlorine in, I could
do that for $54 and it would have the chlorine up at 20+ ppm
unless the pool is olympic size.
On Sun, 06 May 2012 14:42:49 -0700, email@example.com wrote:
I agree with you that I likely wasted my money on algecide and shock.
From now on, it's liquid chlorine (and lots of it) for me!
Here's a picture taken this morning. I'm almost done pumping and
siphoning out the green water from the deep end!
I have to disagree that he has to use only liquid chlorine.
There is nothing wrong with using trichlor tablets. I use
them without any problem and they are not only easier
but cheaper than liquid chlorine. Each has it's place if
used properly and you understand the pros and cons
On Tue, 08 May 2012 08:58:01 -0700, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I think my regimen, once I fix the cracked Jandy valve and wash the pool
walls with the 29% muriatic acid I just bought at Leslies, will be to
take all your advice (although some is conflicting).
0. Replace & replumb the Jandy valve area and wash the pool walls with
1. Fill the pool with the well water (high in calcium at 200ppm which is
good for the pool, high in total alkalinity at 150 ppm, and high in
phosphates at 100 ppb).
2. Shock with liquid HASA chlorine from the Sunnyvale-Saratoga road store
in Saratoga, California.
3. Fill the three floaters with trichlor from Costco or Home Depot (most
available chlorine per dollar).
I will need to adjust the pH as needed.
I'll need to figure out what can be done about phosphates.
I may have to bump the cyanuric acid level up to the bare minimum (it
will grow with the trichlor tablets so I don't want to put too much).
And, that should be about it for chemicals (I hope) other than weekly
liquid HASA chlorine shock.
$50/bucket? What size bucket? If it's the 40# one that's a decent price.
Last I checked it was much higher. I paid at least $75 at Costco.
$25 for a few gallons of muriatic acid (?) that sounds high.
Algaecide?..... LOL. What's that? ;)
I've found Lowe's to be a cheap source for calcium chloride but you can
get it much cheaper online. I don't need much.
Living in the Silicon Valley, as you do, I don't want to waste money on
chemicals (we're already paying through the nose for the sun).
I had my well water tested at Leslies just now and it came up with
phospates at 100 ppb (which is just about the pool limit) and total
alkalinity of 150 ppm which is higher than the suggested range and
calcium hardness of >200 ppm which is in the right range for a pool.
The pH was 7.6 but that will change with chemicals.
I bought a few gallons of the 29% muriatic acid (aka HCl) to scrub the
pool walls down with - and which will be used, as needed, in the pool.
Liquid chlorine I'll get from HASA in that store in Saratoga you
suggested (I have a coupon from the value pack as you suggested ...
normally I chuck that entire envelope - but I leafed through it at your
suggested and it was there as you noted). Also is on the web site.
I'm not sure how to lower phosphates though ...
One problem with the aluminum flocculent in my pool is there is no
vacuum. The pool is designed to be 'self cleaning' (yeah, like high
school kids are self policing).
Anyway, maybe I 'should' have used the flocculent and then 'rented' a
pool vacuum to get the stuff off the bottom ... but that's too late now!
Nope. The skimmers (both of them) are wholly unfiltered!
Other than the skimmer basket and pump basket, anything sucked up by the
skimmer goes right BACK into the pool! I know. It's weird. IMHO, it's
stupid - but that's the way Lifetime and Paramount build pools.
Here's a brochure describing the Paramount PCC2000 "self-cleaning" pool
Basically, the skimmers only skim the huge stuff. Everything else goes
back into the pool, unfiltered so that the dozen rotating pop-up heads
push the crud to the deep end of the pool.
Once at the deep end, it's soooo steep (45 degrees!) that the crud can't
get back out. The filter pump pulls the crud from the bottom of the deep
end and that is the only filtered water.
Here's a picture of the shallow end leading to the deep end.
And, here's a picture of me failing to remove one of the pop up cleaner
I can't seem to understand HOW these things remove, even taking into
account the special tool and the fact they're reverse threaded.
Here's a picture of the two cleaner heads that control the dozen pop up
rotating spray cleaners:
In theory, it should keep the pool clean - but in reality, it stinks.
The problem is there is no way to hook up a vacuum that I can figure out
as the vacuum hooked to the skimmers simply blows the crud right back
into the pool via the pop up cleaner heads!
Clearly, you are not supposed to vacuum the pool.
I read the web page, all the crap heads to the deep end, then
the filter sucks it in leaving the large debris in a canister.
Clean water re-enters the pool.
Sounds like it would work.
When opening the pool, you might have to clear the filter
On Sun, 06 May 2012 20:26:16 -0400, Dan Espen wrote:
Yes. Understood. I will have to pressure wash it.
Plus, the debris canister gets filled to the brim with leaves and stuff
so it has to be dumped often.
Basically, the pool is designed with a VERY SHARP deep end. Then the
dozen popup heads push the debris toward this deep end where it can't get
Then the filter pulls it out into the debris canister and then on to the
filter, and then back to the pool.
Here's a picture of the pool empty showing the shape. You can see the
popup heads in the middle of the bottom of the pool:
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