I have a pole lamp where the switch is inline with the cord and allows me to have one bulb, the other bulb, or both on at the same time.
Except it doesn't anymore. I can get one bulb on but not the other.
Is there a name for that switch? I like the lamp, just want to have it working again.
I'm guessing you need a 3-way in-cord switch :
John T.
On Thursday, December 7, 2017 at 11:33:07 AM UTC-5, snipped-for-privacy@ccanoemail.ca wr ote:
working again.
One of those looks like it will work, but it will not exactly duplicate my application.
My lamp has one piece of 16/2 from the plug to the switch, then one length of 16/2 from the switch to each of two lamp sockets. There are four positi ons: Off, Bulb A, Bulb B, Both. Your switch circuit would run Off, Bulb A , Both. I could live with that if necessary but the other way is preferred .
My other pole lamp has switches on each socket.
I like these because they put the lighting on the task rather than having t he whole room brighter than I want.
I have never seen a switch like that inline. There are plenty that you put in the lamp itself, usually rotary. You can also get a touch switch that does that. If you really want a cord switch, check out the Hubbell or Leviton catalogs.
I've seen a off-low-high switch in a cord before. "Low" used a diode so only half of each AC cycle got to the bulb.
How many wires are coming out of your switch (going to the lamp)?
One 16/2 from outlet to switch, two 16/2s from switch to the bulbs.
t working again.
y application.
h of 16/2 from the switch to each of two lamp sockets. There are four posi tions: Off, Bulb A, Bulb B, Both. Your switch circuit would run Off, Bulb A, Both. I could live with that if necessary but the other way is preferr ed.
Been awhile since I had one of those 3 way lamps, but as I recall, it had t wo filaments in the same bulb. Energizing one gave low, energising the oth er gave med, energizing both have high. It had 3 positions, plus off. Sounds exactly like what you need.
the whole room brighter than I want.
That is an associate link. If you click that and put something in your cart within 24 hours, and then buy it, someone is getting a commission. As the tag googcana-20 is similar to the e-mail address of the poster, I assume that the poster is spamming this newsgroup.
Don.
Tri-light has the special bulbs. I believe the OP has multiple normal bulbs off a single switch. John T.
Nope - just the first link I could find to describe the switch - not a recommendation in any way - sorry. John T.
It is still the same switch. There are lots of configurations of 2 circuit lamps.
This is for one light bulb, or an immutable set of more than one.
See below
I had a rinkydink light in my trunk and put in another one, and rather than removed the first one put in a rotating switch like the second above. It turns out there are two kinds. One has an off position and the other has only 3 like the one whose url is above. I save scrap switches from junk lights. Where to buy new, I don't know.
If I can't find that switch, there is an easy workaround.
I just rewire that switch so both exit wires are hot. Then I put an inline cord switch on the exit wires going to each lamp. Those switches are readily available and cheap. Then I can have either or both bulbs on.
But I kind of like the original setup. I have two pole lamps like this, one with a slide switch and one with a pushbutton. My other pole lamp just has an onswitch on each bulb position.
Before buying the switch, of course I was going to check if it was really b ad.
I took it apart and put a meter on it, and turned out I had voltage on the right output wires for wherever the switch was set. While I had it apart I hit it with a little contact cleaner.
So I put a meter between cord and socket. I had continuity to the center c ontact but not to the shell.
I disassembled the entire thing, kind of a pain, this thing is good German equipment solidly built, but more parts than necessary, and looked for a ba d connection somewhere, but nothing was obvious. Hmm. Looked closer, this has an isolated shell, and a separate lower tab that makes the side contac t. There was no voltage between center and shell, but there was between ce nter and side tab.
Aha. Problem solved. Bend both tabs for good contact, reassemble everythi ng, put the bulb back in and......
nothing.
Besides the bent tab, I had a bad new bulb. Got another bulb, now everythi ng works as designed.
I had a girlfriend who was a pole dancer, and everything was fine until she tried it on a pole lamp. It wasn't pretty. It took the surgeon two hours to get all the wires out of her .
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