I've been stranded by one Chevy, two Olds, one Pontiac, two Buicks. I won't have another GM car. Got rid of the last one ten years ago. Every GM car I bought new had to go back in the first few months for warranty work.
My third Hyundai did need a small warranty repair at 55,000 miles. If I had a GM car with the same problem it would have long been out of warranty. No problems with my Genesis at 24k.
One exception. If someone gave me a Corvette I'd graciously accept it.
replying to clare, Larry wrote: This is so true, where were you when i bought this pos? Lol
My pontiac didn't strand me either - but it sure made getting anywhere miserable -and It would have stranded me if I had not stayed on top of it's problems. Although it never let me down, it never instilled any confidence either.
The only Chevy I'd consider would be a volt or a bolt if I was buying it. A 2 door fiberglass driveway ornament I wouldn't turn down if it was given to me, but I wouldn't waste any money on one. A couple friends have '59 and '61 'vettes - nice toys but not something you'd want to depend on for everyday travel.
"Wood is good, steel is real, and glass is class - so wrap your ass in fiberglass"
replying to Ralph Mowery, Larry wrote: Very true sir. Most cars wont leave you on the side of the road but its frustrating when it happens. Half the time when i sent it to the shop there was a kid working on it and it came back half fixed only to break again. Had a 4 wheeler in the back of my truck and they failed my inspection because the head lights were 8 degrees too high....i asked them if they thought the atv had anything yo do with it. The guy just looked at me, stay in school kids thats my advice lol
replying to Larry, Larry wrote: I really feel bad as i was just poking fun at the second chevy i have bought and done nothing but work on. The first one had 50k on it and was a pos but thats an s-10 for you. This one had 150k on it so in all fairness i knew it was going to break. I didnt expect the 4wd switch, blower fan resistor, both power windows, and all four calipers would go. Of course the power steering pump, starter and alternator went in the next 3 months. I will say all but the pump were easy to do. Sorry folks i didnt mean to start a thread of bash chevy my bad. Going out to hug my chevy right now lol
I have never bought a new car, and only bought one with less than
55,000 miles. That's my current 2003 Impala, which had 48,000. Just did a short drive in my '93 Grand Am. Not saying my cars have been trouble free, but nothing I can't handle. If you want trouble free, you don't buy GM, used or new. But since I've never been stranded, or even worried about it, they've suited me fine. They allowed me to retire early.
Agree on the older 'vettes, but the new ones are much more reliable and comfortable. I've known some owners over the years and every one has another car for regular commuting and bad weather. Corvette is a nice toy though. A friend just took his 2012 down to Florida for the winter and averages 33 mpg.
As for the Volt or Bolt, I'd have to spend some time with it to see how practical it is. I'm thinking heat in very cold weather and AC in summer. Are they as good as a gas powered engine? One thing I really like is being able to start my car for a few minutes with the heated steering wheel on.
For the money I save by buying used Fords I can afford a few pairs of good warm gloves - - - -.
They aren't much fun to work on either. Especially if it has anything to do with the interior behind the dash. Changing out a heater core in one is no fun whatsoever. I'd rather have a nail run thru my foot. Less pain.
Just don't hit anything when you do. [g]
How many cars do you know of where changing out the heater core is "fun"? There sure aren't many.
My 1980 Mustang LX was one of the few. The heater core hoses were easily accessible on the firewall. Inside the car you removed the glove compartment door and removed the 2 screws on the panel that is revealed. The heater then just slid right out. A rarity indeed.
The series 2 Ranger pickup was pretty painless too - a bit more difficult with a 4.0 than with a 2.3, but still pretty simple.
Depends on your idea of fun. The mazda b2x series pickups weren't too bad. Even the s10/sonoma trucks by GM aren't as bad. And depending on the make/model mustang, it may not be a miserable experience either.
Those corvettes oth, are a pain in the arse on a good day.
It's not quite as rare as you might think. You can typically do this on the fox bodies too.
LOL. I've had several s10s and sonomas. I really like them. But, I also understand that I will be dealing with electrical issues on all of them, I've yet to meet one that doesn't do the GM wiring 'can you guess what's wrong with me today?' routine. :)
My favorite one had the 2.5liter iron duke engine. Great little motor, fantastic on gas milage too. But, it did get me for a starter, heater core, blower resistor pack (saab's blower resistor pack isn't any better, btw), etc.
Despite these issues, not one has actually stranded me. I knew ahead of time before I left the driveway the truck had one or more issues that could interfere with it's ability to get me home, should I venture out.
replying to Vic Smith, Larry wrote: You buy a new one every 5 years and trade it in before it becomes a big piece of s*it yeah yeah lol
I actually jb welded a spraying gas line, i sanded the area and dried it very well, globbed a bunch on in the evening and the next morning the problem was solved. It was on a 91 calais. Also like 15 to 20 years ago. But it was spraying out like crazy. And there is no real difference from gas 20 years ago than today unless u get the e85 stuff. But still it would eat thru jb weld any different than than regular 87 octane if anything probably less
I fixed the carbon fiber radiator top on my Camaro with JB Weld and some window screen. It lasted for years.
Fuel pressure ranges from about 35 to over 85PSI, but if it is the return line you are looking at about 3. JB might workif you get it PERFECTLY CLEAN first - on the return line and do not run ethanol fuel. I would be wary of using it on the pressure line. Removing the pump and brazing the line is a much better fix - and the tool to remove the line is cheap and good to have for other fuel system service. Buy it.
"back in the day" I temporarily fixed leaking gas tnaks with a bar of soap. I dixed them with a sheet metal screw, washer, and leather washer. I fixed them with "seal-all" and with Devcon Steel (an earlier product similar to J-B Weld) as well as by soldering a penny over the hole.
I've brazed cracked lines and even rusted lines (when no replacement was available) and I've also soldered them - as well as removing the bad line from the pump/fuel sender unit and soldering a new one in.
JB weld will stand up to pure gasoline but ethanol changes the situation significantly. On the return line you MIGHT get away with it. Or you might enf up re-doing the job in a couple weeks - and have to deal with removing the JB weld at that time as you can't solder or braze with JB in the patch.
Very true . Did there use to be inspecters at automobile plants ? To be sure that the automobiles water safe for people . And now we have all makes & modes that have factory defects . Ford's fuel pump these is too small to carry the right amount of current voltage and it can catch on fire while driving and there's you and your family and the vehicle getting burned up that's just one of their factory defects . I think it's quite dangerous to have your family in the car with you .
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