Upgrading to 300Amp electric service

It's 36KW, so it needs 150A. With 200A, you only have 50A left for everything else. So, what are the other significant loads? AC? Electric ovens? Cooktop? Dryer? Add it up and you'll have your answer. Even one of those other loads and you're close to the limit. I think for most people, tankless makes no sense, for a variety of reasons. Starting with that I don't believe the operating cost savings justify the larger upfront costs. The essential difference is you're eliminating the standby losses of a tank type. Electric tank you can buy one of those extra insulation blankets and pretty much totally enclose it in more insulation which will reduce the losses.

He might want to think about downsizing the heater to 24KW, understanding that that might limit the hot water he can use at any one time. The things that will end up competing will be an electric range and the dryer but if you have 100a to work with that might not be problem 99% of the time. Only having 50 could be problematic. Without a load calc it is really hard to say what he can do. I tend to agree with you, tankless water heaters may have a very long payback time if you don't have natural gas.

To the OP, have you looked at what the cost will be to upgrade? You can probably just put in a 320a "meter main" change the feeder from there to your existing panel with "4 wire" add a grounding bus or two and feed the new water heater from the meter main. You are likely still talking about close to a grand by the time you are done with the service. It will take a long time to make that back, just saving the lostr heat from youe existing water heater. Remember in the winter, there is no lost heat at all if you are running the furnace.

On Fri 25 May 2018 10:44:02a, Mistert told us...

More could have been mentioned about what you have in your home. It would be better to take a complete invenory of your home's contents that use electricity than to guess at it.

When we bought our condo (only 1500 sq, ft.)it had a 200 amp panel (it had already been upgraded from a 100 amp panelsome years before that). Knowing all of the electrically dependant items in our condo, we added a second 200 amp panel to handle any possible combination of electric usage. We have the following:

HE washer and dryer

an elaborate installation of outdoor lighting at least 5-6 light fixtures or lamps in each room

That probably doesn't cover everthing, but we never wanted the risk of tripping a breaker, and never had except for a shorted out appliance. We had several brown-outs, but that was external to the panels in our home.

In our case it wa easier and less costly to add a second panel than to upgrade the existing panel.

We have replaced most of our incandescent light bulbs with LEDs wherever possible. However, out bathroom light fixtures use proprietary halogen light bulbs.

Sorry for the long discourse!

The payback is even worse if you have natural gas. They suck up gas like they suck up electricity, so you typically have to run a bigger gas pipe from some big tap off, maybe even all the way from the meter. And gas heats cheaper, so that makes the pay back take longer. Here, the summer gas bill is under $20, which includes hot water and some gas grilling. What you're saving is mostly the standby cost, of the $20, that can't be all that much. Even if it's half, $10 x

So you have 2 meters too? If not you have a 400 amp service. To do that here I would need to have another service feed brought in from the underground transformer vault at a cost of some $8000 - Whether I went for a 400 amp oor 2 200s - or even to put in a single

It is worse than that. If the furnace is on, there is no lost heat at all. It still goes to warming the house. It is like all of the other energy you use in winter. The only real wasted energy is what escapes the envelope of the house and the hot water you send down the drain.

My well water temperature is 48F.

I can't imagine what it would feel like to be taking a nice hot morning shower and all of a sudden the libtard energy-saving tankless water heater quits working.  Suddenly I'd be standing in a stream of 48F water trying to rinse the shampoo out of my hair. No thanks, I'll keep 50 gallon tank type water heater.

Can be a pretty long payback on Natural Gas too if you need to replace the meter and upsize the high pressure line from the street. Since gas is cheaper per therm than electricity the payback will be a lot longer because the cost savings are a lot smaller - even if it's the same percentage savings.

hower and all of a sudden the libtard energy-saving tankless water heater q uits working.  Suddenly I'd be standing in a stream of 48F water tryin g to rinse the shampoo out of my

That's true, with a failure on a tank type, you'd get a more gradual shift that gives you warning. Also, if the power goes out, you have

In the US you are going to have one service with a few very specific exceptions like a fire pump, different voltage characteristics or a building so big it is not practical to feed it with one. That still does not mean you can't have up to 6 service panels tho but it will all be on one drop or service lateral. They are usually going to be metered together too unless it is permitted for multiple dwellings. You are right that you are limited by the service lateral for buried services (the "service point" is at the street) but generally a utility owns an overhead drop so they will replace that for free. That service point is where the crimps are at the house. You still own the "service entrance conductors" from there to the meter and from the meter to the disconnect. You can see, buried services are far more expensive to upgrade, even if the pipe is big enough for larger conductors. Usually, if you have a 2" service lateral conduit, you can go up to

Trying to change the subject makes you a luzer.

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