I upgraded my house from 100A to 200A 5 years ago. I buried 3" conduit from
the pole to the house.
I was told the 3" would support 400A.
At the time I did not have the money to install 400A, so I just thought I
could find a 400A panel later.
I do not think they make a residential 400A panel, and from what I have seen
it uses two 200A panels.
I am still wanting to put 400A service to my house, to try to cut on my
electric bill. ($565.00 last month).
In the 3" conduit, do they use 6 wires for the 400A to a two 200A meter pan,
or use larger wires to a 400A meter pan?
I probably will get the call an electrician, but I feel as though I can do
the install, just wanted some info on how it is done.
I haven't seen it with power but I have seen it with water. You are charged
a regular monthly fee which varies with the size of your meter, plus usage.
Here in California, where residential fire sprinklers are a way of life, the
days of the cheapo 5/8" meter are gone. I have had to go to a 1" inch and
occasionally even a 2" meter to meet the demands of the fire gods. And that
2" meter has a healthy monthly price tag before counting any usage at all.
Don't understand how increasing service size could reduce power bill. I have
had a 400A. bifurcated service for 14 years. This is due to possible
requirements of geothermal system back-up. The back-up has only been used
once in the period but without the 400A. service, it wouldn't have been
possible to have heat on the lower level when the compressor failed.
Save your money. Increasing the size of your service only increases the
amount of power available to consume, it doesn't decrease the amount you do
consume. You are billed on KWH consumption ... period. Decrease your
consumption and your bill will decrease. A better use for that money would
be to upgrade your A/C system to a more energy efficient system ... like 16
SEER. Assuming your existing A/C system is old, that upgrade will decrease
your bill significantly (I upgraded from 9 SEER to 15 SEER and achieved
almost a 30% reduction in my summer electric bills). There are several other
very low cost ways to decrease your consumption significantly ... like
turning off lights when you leave a room, turning off the TV when no one is
watching, adjusting the thermostat up in the summer and down in the winter,
turning off the computer when it's not being used, fixing duct leaks in the
A/C system, weatherstripping to repair air leakage, etc, etc, etc.
Call your power company and see if they offer a free energy survey, they'll
tell you what you can do to decrease your consumption (and may find the
cause for the high bills ... like a stuck water heater thermostat which
causes the water heater to stay on continuously).
And yes, if you're wondering, I do work for a very large power company in
the southeast US. Seeing that your with BellSouth it could very well be the
one that supplies your power (and we do offer free energy surveys to
A/C is another story. I have two, a 3ton (10 years old), and a 4ton (five
I looked at replacing them, and that is on my todo list.
Not so much when the A/C kicks on, but when my well pump kicks on, my lights
I wanted the second panel to balance my load requirements.
Pump was wired for 110, and it draws 12A. Hook it up to 220, and it drops to
Less Amperage is less draw on my spinning meter.
That is where I was going with my question about going to 400A.
As far as lights being left on, my kids think they need to test them all at
I have replaced almost all with the fluorescent type of bulb.
With nine living here, there is always someone leaving something on.
At what temp do you set the A/C thermostat? You can set it as high as 80F and
still be comfortable when the A/C reduces the humidity. When I lived in south
TX, I used 82-84 in the hottest part of the summer.
Nope. The meter counts Watts, not Amps. 110V x 12A == 220V x 6A == 1320Watts.
Your pump draws the same power (Watts) regardless of voltage, if it is pumping
the same amount of water, as long as the voltage is at the minimum spec.
measuring error may account for the slight difference you see in the current
You could use motion sensor switches in some rooms that automatically turn on
the lights when someone's there, and off again when they leave. However, many
are not compatible with fluorescent lights, so check compatibility.
Could be that the well will consume more watts at 110v because of a long run
from the meter to the pump resulting in a voltage drop and therefore the
pump will be running less efficient than it could.
I agree however that a larger service panel will do nothing to solve this
About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
Watts = Volts X Amps
120 V X 10 A = 1200 watts
240 V X 5 A = 1200 watts
And the power company bills for kilowatthours ... 1000 watts consumed for
one hour = 1 kwh
That why the electric meter is called a "watthour" meter.
Here's a scenario maybe even the OP will understand. Suppose a car gets 15
MPG and has a 20 gallon gas tank. Will replacing the 20 gallon tank with a
40 gallon tank reduce what the driver spends on fuel each week? No - because
the car still gets 15 MPG. That's exactly what he's proposing by upgrading
the service to 400 amps ... it won't make ANY difference on the monthly
It won't (as you know, OP doesn't understand)...
If you read the rest of the post, he's under the delusion that
converting his well pump to 220V from 110V will, by cutting amperage,
halve is bill for it... :(
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.