When watching TV in my family room, if I'm feeling a little warm, I just
turn down the volume on the stereo receiver. If I'm too cool, I turn up the
volume. Honest, that is how it works.
After the power surge damage, I rep laced the TV and sound system. Last
night we were watching a movie and the room AC was on so I turned up the
volume to overcome it. A few minutes later, the AC shut off and the TV
seemed loud, so I turned it down. Soon, the AC was back on so I turned the
volume back up. After repeating this one more time, my wife noticed what
The AC has a remote to control a few functions. The new receiver has a
remote with many functions. Coincidently, the volume of the sound system is
the same signal as the temperature on the AC unit so I was moving them both
up and down at the same time.
Another respondent suggested returning the home entertainment system and getting
I suspect that any thermostat modern enough to have an IR remote control feature
probably is also fully programmable, and the need to manually over-ride the
program on an ongoing basis is like to be minimal if you've set the programs for
your customized circumstances. I suggest that unless a member of your household
has a physical limitation that really makes the remote control operation of the
thermostat important, you might want to forsake that feature and put a small
amount of opaque tape over the IR sensor on the thermostat.
You missed the part about being a room AC. It is not a thermostat it is the
unit itself controlled by a remote. off/on, temperature fan/cool
The TV volume can be controlled with the cable box remote so it is only when
using the BluRay Disc that I'll be using the receiver volume with a remote.
The AC is only in the window a few months of the year so it is not difficult
to work around the few times needed. Duct tape can fix anything. .
Sorry for the inaccurate read, of your initial inquiry, but the principle behind
my suggestion (above) remains the same. I assume that the window A/C unit has
controls directly on it. Would it be a big sacrifice to cover the IR sensor on
the A/C unit and control the unit directly?
I'm suggesting that if you've set the temperature (thermostat) control on the
A/C unit to suit your comfort, you probably only want to turn the unit on when
that area is hot and occupied, and not run it if that area gets too hot but it
is unoccupied. So, when you plan to occupy the area instead of turning on the
unit with the A/C's remote, you manually turn on the A/C. You remain in the
area for whatever activities you normally do there. When you would normally
turn the unit off using the A/C's remote control, you turn it off on the unit
itself, rather than by using the A/C's remote control. You say that it is a
window unit, you can probably easily reach the manual controls on it unless as I
mentioned above there are physical limitation issues that for personal privacy
reasons, you would rather not mention here. You end up keeping both the A/C and
your new equipment that you probably like and for which you probably spent a
good amount of time researching before you bought it.
Its really not a big deal, I thought it funny after I found what was going
on. The AC gets turned on, later turned off and is rarely ever adjusted.
Same with the sound level as that control is usually only use with an input
aside from the cable box. . I'll either tape over it or make some provision
for the few times they may interfere.
If you can find the ir pickup on the ac you could try gluing a small
tube over it. That would keep it from reponding to stray ir as
easily. You would need to point the control more directly in front of
Not that this sheds any light on it, but a few yr ago I had a similar
problem. I bought an electric space heater with a remote, for my
computer room/den. Turns out that the remote from my Motorola DVR would
also trigger the heater! The heater would respond randomly to various
buttons, and then once it started doing that, would randomly change
settings even if a button hadn't been pushed. Weird thing was that if I
power failed the heater and then didn't use its own remote, it wouldn't
react to the Moto one, but if I once used its own remote to fire it up,
it would start reacting to the Moto.
Never could figure it out, and either could the heater company. I
finally just quit using its own remote, and just turned it off and on
manually, and it never misbehaved again.
Hey. I had a single floor speaker catch fire. I was headed up the
stairs from the basement one day and flames were just starting to burn
the front material. Solution? Tossed it out the front door, flames
and all, and into the snow. I had never witnessed such an event.
Never even looked for a _reason why_ but the floors were vibrating
from the full volume :;
It is possible that both IR remotes are using the same communications
protocol if they are by chance using the same transceivers: Sony IR chips
and SIRCS protocol for example. You may be able to find that out by
turning the stereo system OFF and then playing with it's remote. Try
volume control (or any other buttons for that matter) and see if your A/C
thermostat responds with any screen changes. If it does, you're screwed -
return the stereo while it's not too late, get a different brand.
Either that or you have a MIGHTY powerful (yet inefficient) stereo system:
volume's up - power's up - heat dissipation's up - A/C tries to
compensate. I imagine it would have to be very loud for any scenario like
that but you didn't say how loud it was ...
Some devices have a remote address setting so that you can have two
similar units in the same room and not have the remotes conflict with
each other. You may be able to change the address for the audio system
so as not to conflict with the air conditioner. If not, you may need to
cover the IR receiver on the air conditioner and control it the way
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