So what? It's not a Code violation to plug unlisted equipment into a receptacle.
So would the Code -- the definition of "readily accessible" includes not needing portable ladders to reach it.
So what? It's not a Code violation to plug unlisted equipment into a receptacle.
So would the Code -- the definition of "readily accessible" includes not needing portable ladders to reach it.
NFPA = National Fire Protection Agency.
He can save the 44 cents and just read what they say in the ROP about GFCIs. There are always numerous proposals to reduce the number of circuits requiring GFCIs and the trend always goes the other way. Now (2008 code) you will have AFCIs virtually everywhere you don't have GFCI and they have ground fault protection in them. If your sump pump trips a GFCI, it will probably trip an AFCI. Same with that old fridge you have out in the garage for your beer.
In the case of your pump, I would carefully inspect it to be sure water hasn't gotten in the switch or motor housing. That may be your whole trouble. If you still want to use it, in spite of a possible leakage to ground, be damned sure the grounding is good, (even to the point of adding another bonding wire) put in a regular receptacle and say "come and get me copper" but that is not what I advise.
It may end up being "come and get me EMS"
My new home passed without it in 1998, things may have changed.
I personally would not want any critical piece of equipment like that on a GFCI. Mkes no sense, its in the hole anyway.
If the Sump Pump or Freezer have 3-wire grounded cords, the shouldn't need a GFCI anyway. My Sump Pump and all three refrigerator/freezers are on non-GFCI outlets.
Unless it is a dedicated SINGLE outlet. Sump pumps CAN'T be on GFCI's.
You already flooded so you know the answer. Dont use one on a frige or sump pump.
The NEC no longer has any exceptions
*I had the same problem several months ago trying to find a 15 amp, 120 volt single receptacle. My usual supply house doesn't stock them anymore and apparently Home Depot does not or was out of stock at the time. I wound up going to another supply house that had them. They are available, but you may have to look more. The fifteen amp that you found is for 220 volts and you should not put a 20 amp single there.
The pertinent article in NFPA 70 is 210.8 and you can submit your suggestion on the form below:
Don't overlook the idea of installing a GFCI breaker back at the box.
Thanks. I'll keep looking around.
Oops.
Thanks. I'll do the form and submit it. I'm not going to try to create the actual suggested wording. I'll just write something that explains what my suggestion is and why.
You usually have good advice. This one isn't.
The pump, float switch or line cords designed for 20A may not fail safely when operated on a 30A circuit. In addition to higher current the trip time can be longer. I would particularly wonder about the line cords.
A smart person uses UL listed equipment.
I've got news for you: the line cord on a sump pump isn't "designed for 20A". Go have a look at one. Tell me what gauge the conductors are.
| >>
| >>> It's not done by the appliance, but the receptacle location. The NEC | >>> requires all outlets in unfinished parts of basements to be GFCI | >>> protected. | >
| > Unless it is a dedicated SINGLE outlet. Sump pumps CAN'T be on GFCI's. | | The NEC no longer has any exceptions
Is GFCI protection required for 15A or 20A 220V outlets?
Dan Lanciani ddl@danlan.*com
You will be writing for the 2014 code cycle. The 2011 is closed.
Start reading down around page 70-118 to see what NFPA thinks of changing 210.8 requirements for fewer GFCIs
... and the world ends in 2012. Crap. ;-)
No, just 125 volt. Not a bad idea. The OP can rewire the circuit for 240 volt, change the outlet, and pump, and he's off to the races
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