Strip LED fixture with accessory outlet

Sep 06, 2021 Last reply: 4 years ago 33 Replies

I have a four foot single tube T12 fluorescent fixture over the mirror in the bathroom. The plastic lens has degraded, yellow and cracked, and it's my last fixture with the old style fluorescent. It's slow to start, and yes I replace the starter when I replace the tube.



I can pop in an LED tube, I've rewired the rest of the house's fluorescent fixtures, but can't find a lens replacement. Really I'd rather just buy an LED fixture that doesn't look like 1960.



But this one has a 110V outlet on the end, which we use for the toothbrush, water pick, charge the razor, etc. There's no other convenient outlet nearby. When I shop for a replacement I can't find one with an outlet.



Do they not make these anymore?


Whatever you get - make sure that the led has a very diffuse diffuser - many of them meant for workshop ceilings do not - in a bathroom the intense pin-point light from the led would probably be unwelcome. John T.

It's easy to find inexpensive bathroom vanity lights with an accessory AC outlet that were designed to use incandescent bulbs. You may want to install one of those but install stand base (E26) LED bulbs into the sockets. Not as sleek a design as a LED strip but both the fixtures and bulbs both easy to find and inexpensive.

Not a bad idea. My quick google search didn't find any led bathroom fixtures with a 115 v. receptacle either. John T.

Not likely. The GFCI requirement and the rules about required bathroom circuits precludes receptacles on general lighting circuits. (90 or 93 code I think).

Or conversely, you might be able to buy a nice LED fixture with a sheet-metal base and put a 110v outlet in the side of it.

You clearly have the wiring already; you can take socket from the currrent fixture or buy one; you can make the hole with a punch or nibbler etc.

It may work better to see the fixture in person, at least at first, than just on the web to know what the side is made of that it's hollow where it needs to be hollow (which it almost surely is.) Although Amazon is fairly good at showing views that are usually of no interest, like the back and underside.

My bathroom fixtures had receptacles but I put in a switch in one to turn off the bathroom fan.

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all seem to have flat sides but I can't tell if they're sheet metal or what. Even plastic can be cut nicely with a hot knife tip for a soldering iron.

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it would be easier to find space for a 2-prong outlet and afaik all the things you listed that you use there are 2-prong:
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Will making the hole be a problem?

I'm not an electrician but easily found relevant stuff doing web searches. Text in quotes from:

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and apparently pertains to the most current (2020) NEC code:

"Although ground-fault circuit-interrupter (GFCI) protection is required for outlets in bathrooms and other damp locations, the National Electrical Code does not require it for bathroom light fixtures or their wall switches. However, many bathroom light fixtures ? especially those rated for damp or wet areas ? have a manufacturer's requirement that the light fixtures and the switches controlling them must be GFCI-protected. If so, then it is common to install a GFCI circuit breaker to protect the entire branch circuit that powers these light fixtures.

Another means of providing GFCI protection to light fixtures that require it is to use a single dedicated 20-amp circuit to power both outlets and light fixtures and to feed power to the light fixtures through a GFCI receptacle that is wired for downstream protection. This is considered a superior method to using a GFCI circuit breaker since a GFCI outlet that trips can be easily reset right in the bathroom; you won't have to travel to the service panel to reset the breaker. GFCI circuit breakers are prone to "phantom tripping," and this can be very inconvenient for a bathroom circuit."

Therefore, unless OP's local code is more restrictive than current NEC code, the OP may be able to install a pre-code fixture with built-in receptacle either by using a GCFI circuit breaker in the breaker box for the circuit (if 20 amp and only supplying the bathroom), or by running daisy chain wires from a wall mounted GCFI receptacle in that bathroom. There's lots of web info on which connectors on the GCFI to connect the daisy chain wires.

So, using an older, pre-code fixture may still be a viable option. If the OP ignores code, he may get away with it unless/until (a) he has a fire and the adjuster or fire inspector notes the non-code wiring, or (b) he plans to sell the property and the buyer's inspector notes the non-code wiring.

Suppose you do a little shade tree engineering. Put an LED into the existing fixture. Throw the lens away. There are translucent plastic sheets available. Build some sort of frame to hold the sheet in place. There are places that cut plastic sheets to fit.

On Mon, 6 Sep 2021 06:26:20 -0700 (PDT), TimR posted for all of us to digest...

Just make sure it on a GFCI circuit.

I am liking this. The Toggle at Home Depot has 2 tubes for $20. The LED shop light I bought has a large number of visible LED sources but the Toggle I just put into an older shop light has a diffuser included. It's not quite as bright as the shop light but it works well. This would keep me going for a while for cheap while i look for a better solution. I will have to change the tombstone, the existing light has a starter so I'm sure that must be a shunted one.

Not really. The requirement that ALL receptacles be on a dedicated bathroom GFCI protected circuit still exists. There are also requirements about having one adjacent to the sink and not part of a luminaire. I understand the NEC police are not going to be batter ramming his door but main line manufacturers are not real keen on trying to sell non-compliant luminaires so the ones with a receptacle will usually be new old stock or some unlisted thing from Asia.

The LED tubes I have been buying have internal defuser and look much like fluorescent. Just be aware of what color you are buying. I like

2700 but a lot of folks will go with 3000 if you want whiter light. 3500 is operating room stuff. It is usually best to get the direct wire tube and chuck all of that ballast/starter hardware.

Maybe do a search for "linkable" LED. I found a few but they were shop lights with a two wire receptacle.

Perhaps put 4 LED bulbs in this...but first protect the circuit with a GFCI breaker.

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Would a fixture like this and a GFCI breaker satisfy the code?

If not, it would at least be safe, wouldn't?

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If it was GFCI it would be safe but it wouldn't be code compliant unless that was a 20a circuit dedicated to that particular bathroom.

210.11(C)(3) (3) Bathroom Branch Circuits. In addition to the number of branch circuits required by other parts of this section, at least one 120-volt, 20-ampere branch circuit shall be pro- vided to supply a bathroom receptacle outlet(s). Such cir- cuits shall have no other outlets. Exception: Where the 20-ampere circuit supplies a single bathroom, outlets for other equipment 'within the same bathroom shall be permitted to be supplied in accordance with 210.23(A)( J) and (A)(2).

Suppose Tim went about it backwards. Replace the single outlet with a duplex GFCI. Wire it to be on constantly. Find a plug in LED with remote control.

A lot depends on what is in the box the luminaire wires into. I didn't screw with it here. I dropped a dedicated 20 in both bathrooms as soon as the girls moved in. My daughter's hair dryer took out the fridge breaker. The rules were looser in 63 when this house was wired and an electric razor was a typical bathroom load. The fridge is still in with the range hood, kitchen light and bathroom light but that is all that is still on that circuit.

I guess that in Flordia there is not much need for heat. Here in NC the

1500 watt or so portable heaters (usually called bathroom heaters by many) are used in many houses . In the bathroom and sometimes in other rooms. Way back in the 1950's many had just a oil heater or two in the living areas and there was no heat in the bathroom unless you had gas there may be a heater on the wall.

Whoa! Hold on there, buckaroo.

You'll negate the UL listing if you modify the fixture in that manner.

The pULice will be on his doorstep before he gets done with his first shower. ;-)

The GFCI probably wouldn't fit anyway. Most of the built-in convenience receptacles weren't duplexes mounted in a standard box, instead just a clip-in device, using the fixture case itself as the "box""

Like these.

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