Strip LED fixture with accessory outlet

My fan/heater unit has it's own 20A circuit.

The fan is on a humidistat, so no need to turn it on except for odors. Then it shuts off automatically after 30 minutes.

The heater has a timer switch. 10m, 20m, 30m, 60m SWMBO uses it a lot.

The switch panel:

I am not nearly that much into it but we have heat in the bathrooms here. I was remodeling at the time and running lots of wire so it was easy. We have a fan/heater in the guest bath. The fan is on an occupancy sensor with a 10-20-30 minute delay off. The heater is on a wind up timer. In our bath the heat is four 500w IR bulbs in the ceiling. That gets you toasty right now. I seldom use it but my wife does.

I have never been a fan of heat bulbs in bathrooms. I never liked the feel of the heat nor the look.

Definitely a personal preference and certainly not mine.

I have a fan/heat/light unit in the basement bathroom, which can get pretty chilly in the winter. The heater isn't as good as the previous unit (which died a slow death) so I have small space heater in there. It's mainly "my" bathroom, so I'm fine with it.

That was all my wife's doing. She built a couple hundred bathrooms and she has strong ideas. They are good when you get out of the shower and it is cold in there. Instant heat.

Our bathrooms when we lived in Germany had heated tile floors.

Very pleasant after a shower, or just first thing on a cold morning.

Time to update this thread with my progress.

I replaced the existing lens with a commercial product from Fluorolite. I sent them measurements and a photo, and got one that was an exact fit. The price was reasonable but the shipping cost doubled it. I checked Amazon and another source and they are all like that, the product is fragile.

I didn't replace the tube yet, because the old one was still working. Yesterday it wouldn't start, the tube just glowed a bit. Time to pull the old ballast out and put in a new LED tube. Home Depot has dropin single tubes for $11 but that depends on the ballast staying good, I feel safer just wiring to the tombstones. All the direct wire ones come in pairs, I guess I'll end up with a spare in the shed that I don't remember where I put if I ever need it.

Any advice on color temperature for a bathroom?

Personal preference will play a role, but at my house I wouldn't consider anything below 4000K. That rules out anything that says 2300K to 3000K and the ones that use words like "soft white" or "warm".

We like 4000K to 5000K in the bathrooms, and then the only thing to figure out is how many lumens do we want. We like 6 bulbs at 850 lumens each, which in our case means two fixtures with 3 bulbs each. That strikes a pretty good balance, and the greater number of bulbs tends to spread out the light so that shadows are minimized.

I'd agree with that. Bathrooms should be bright.

Lowes has a GE single tube LED for $10. But it's Type B, meaning it will work on some ballasts but needs to be direct wired on others.

That seems like it would add complexity that could hurt reliability.

Also, the instructions require adding an inline 1 A fuseholder and fuse, not provided, if you direct wire. I didn't add a fuse on any of the other fluorescent fixtures I've converted to LED by direct wiring. Requiring a fuse makes me wonder if there has been some bad experience that taught them to add it.

After quite a bit of googling I found several comments that say the reason for the fuse is to prevent shock or burn when somebody puts an old fluorescent into the LED wired fixture.

I'm not sure I buy that. These are two end LED bulbs, so power goes to both tombstones, unlike the one end ones I have elsewhere in the house and shed. So you would have to have a finger on the old style fluorescent pins, and be grabbing a copper water pipe for support, and insert the pin end into the hot end of the fixture - and then a 1 A fuse would protect you? I don't think it would blow.

Now a one end bulb I can see, when you put the pins in you'll short it out. I don't think you'll be shocked but you'll damage the bulb and fall off the ladder. But those don't seem to require fuses.

with dimmers for when you don't want to roast your eyeballs when you get up at night. We have switched pretty much the whole house over to 5000K plus LED lighting

I have a nightlight in bathrooms, kitchen.

Lowes had the double end tubes at 4000K and 6500K. I went with the higher number. It's a little too blue for my tastes but the family says it's okay. Cost me $9.40 and a little labor pulling out the ballast and reconnecting wires.

LEDs are supposed to have a long lifespan but eventually it will die as all things electronic do. Whether there will still be a similar replacement at that time is unknown. On the other hand, I'm not that young either!