IMO- That's just plain silly. First choice is get wood that
splits-- but if that isn't possible, I'd probably break down and get
a motorized splitter.
I'm 60 yrs old and haven't swung an axe for more than a dozen swings
in 10 years. But I'll bet I can split a cord of decent wood with
a splitting axe faster than somebody can operate that $170.
And unless you have no use of your arms at all, that one seems even
Anybody that has used either of those devices- or similar- feel free
to correct me. [and if you've got the tool and a wood pile within
100 miles of Schenectady, I'd love to come out and split some wood for
you just to see them work]
I'm 77 and I think I could split wood faster with a hammer and chisel
than that asinine rig. I saw a promotional video of one back when the
first one showed up on the scene. I counted 7 strokes to split a
stove size piece in half. Clear grain and it could have been split
with a small hatchet with one swing.
There is a place for it for someone who is so disabled that it is the
only tool they could operate.
You can rent splitters - or better mooch splitter time from a
friend. A case of beer goes a long way toward reducing aching
In man talk, a good friend owns a log splitter and knows how to brew beer.
And a reeeeeeeealy good friend has a boat, too.
If it is the file bouning off the steel of the maul try a belt sander.
If it is the maul bouncing off the rounds of wood then start with ones
that have obvious cracks or the smallest ones first until you get the
hang of it.
I see it has been mentioned about green wood. Some is very difficult to
split when wet so wait for at least a couple of weeks. You don't want the
blade too sharp either as it ill dig in as opposed to pushing the sides
Next is leverage. You want the blade to hit the wood at 90 degrees to the
handle, not near the bottom of the swing arc. Get a round of wood to use as
the base, then put the wood to be split on top of that,. You get a more
powerful and meaningful blow to the grain of the wood,.
Even better is to wait until the cold weather comes. After a long freeze,
the wood that is bouncing today will literally pop into two pieces with one
well placed hit.
Wear gloves and hard tipped shoes or boots, safety glasses.
Splitting wood is far better than paying to go to a gym.
Not familiar with birch but it is a good idea to google up the fuel
value of various woods. The hard woods are usually best. I think
some like fat wood which is from a high resin pine stump makes good
fire starter but burning a lot of pine is a no no because of high
creosote build up.
Old wives tale. If the pine is cured well dthere is no creosote
problem any worse than any other wood, assuming one isn't burrning
with an oxygen starved fire. There are mny places where you heat with
pine, fir, spruce or you don't heat with wood at all.
Not that easy to figure out.
Saw from this site:
That there are 4 different types of birch, couple burn good, couple poor.
Don't know what are predominant woods in your area and agree with cite
that says you should use trusted supplier.
My tree guy cut down a silver maple years ago and I saved $50 to keep
the wood. Was a bear to split and burned poorly. If it were good he
would have taken it to sell as firewood, but he does not sell crap.
On Tue, 4 Oct 2011 13:54:36 -0300, "don &/or Lucille"
A few pictures of bark aren't going to tell you much. Can't/won't
the guy you bought it from tell you what it is?
It is pretty likely he'll either say 'I don't know" [which translates
to "find yourself another supplier" ]-- or he'll say 'there was birch,
maple, oak & poplar in the load I brought you'.
If he admits to selling you poplar, he's a keeper, but tell him you
don't need any poplar next time.
Some woods might take a *really* good look at bark texture and color,
wood color, grain structure, smell, and weight to tell what it is. If
you're in NY, the woods it could be will be a whole lot different from
the possibilities an west TX. [I see you have a ca address-- so NS to
And though it will be a PITA to learn all the woods that someone might
bring you-- if you're going to be buying wood, it is time well spent.
This seems untrue.
1. Machines cannot make (at an economical
price) a sharp axehead. Only a (skilled) person
with a file can render an axe really sharp.
2. Retail stores do not want their stock of axes
to be sharp (to avoid accidents in handling, by
curious customers etc.)
Not in the UK-- but that's the easiest way to make 2 pieces of twisted
elm separate. I've never worked with cypress, but have heard the
same of it.
Makes for difficult firewood-- but good wooden hubs for wagons or
furniture pieces that you don't want to split.
Hickory is pretty resistant- but splittable when seasoned unless
you've got a chunk of crotchwood.
Investigate buying a machine driven hydraulic wood splitter. We just split
7 tons of firewood this past week, and will go this coming week and get
another three. Yes, they are a little spendy. And I know that there are
those who say that manual splitting is better, easier, and much cheaper.
All I know is that my right arm still works fine, and that's all I need to
run it. I cannot use an axe or maul or hammer due to multiple orthopedic
problems and a slight bit of laziness. New, today, a good one is $1500.
Used ones can be had for less than that, and in this economy, I'd believe I
could find a decent slightly used one for around $500.
Splitting wood is hard dangerous work no matter what you use. A member of
our family just had three amputated fingers reattached two weeks ago in a 12
hour surgery. He was splitting wood on a tractor powered splitter, and
something went wrong. I just think that a motorized splitter may be a
little safer, even in light of his accident. Teenager.
Assess your capabilities and do what you think best. Lots of people have
died splitting wood and shoveling snow. It's a sure way to find out how
good your heart is working, any means you use.
The machine is infinitely faster and easier.
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