A few more facts, please. What do you have now? Logs? (long round pieces)
Rounds? (short round pieces) What kind of wood? How long ago was the wood
cut? Was it alive or dead when cut? Is it dried out, or wet?
Please describe as best you can the appearance ....... does it still have
bark, and can that be pulled off easily or hard to pull off? Is it dry or
wet? Is there beads of sap or pitch oozing out of the ends?
You have several things to consider here, one of them might be if the wood
is even able to be used this season. (Wood needs to "season" to dry out so
it burns better.)
Read up and get the basics. There's more to it than just cutting firewood,
as you are already finding out.
Are you ever considering harvesting your own wood? That opens up a totally
What a blog of useless, often even wrong or off topic this thread is! And in
all the posts I did look at, not a sngle link for valdation/clarifcation;
just guesses & the hard way to do the sharpening in about evrty case!
I simply use a bench grinder with a coarse and a fine wheel pf the correct
design; fills the bill every time. The angle of the sharpening s actually
the most mortant thing to get right regardless of what you want to sharpen.
The angle depends on what you're sharpening. I just measure them on new
parts or while parts are new, and record them but even a dull edge
measurement will get you into the ballpark. So in essence, copy whats there
to start with.
Sorry, but I'm not into angles on splitting wedges or mauls. There is none.
There is no sharp edge to be made. It seriously reduces the effectiveness
of the tool.
But you knew that, right?
Now, I think I'll go put a 7 degree edge on my hydraulic sharpener just to
make it work better.
You need to understand how a splitting tool works. Nothing happens
until it "enters" the wood and after than the point never touches the
wood, the split runs ahead of it. A dull edge just makes the work
Elm! I cut some Red Elm two years ago. It was part of a deal with a
farmer to get a batch of Black Locust trees (#1 firewood). I will
never, ever fool with that stuff again. Even with a splitter I had to
use a hatchet to cut the strings.
I am now burning it. Very good wood, burns hot, burns long but the
worst wood I have ever burned for the amount of ash it leaves. It is
also a very light, feathery ash dthat I have poke down through the
stove grate. I am emptying the ashpan every 2-3 days vice the 4-5
days I was used to witht other wood.
With elm there seems to be a small window- about 2-3 years after it
dies - where the strings are gone, but the wood will still burn-- if
But even at that, remember this one from the old Farmers Almanac
"Elm wood new or elm wood old, even the embers are very cold"
[I can't find that-- but here are a couple poems that cover a raft of
woods- http://thankstrees.tripod.com/id16.html ]
I might be mis-remembering this stanza;
"Oaken logs, if dry and old
Keep away the winters cold
Poplar gives a bitter smoke
Fills your eyes and makes you choke
Elmwood burns like churchyard mould
Even the very flames burn cold
Hawthorn bakes the sweetest bread
So it is in Ireland said
Applewood will scent the room
Pears wood smells like a flower in bloom
But Ashwood wet and Ashwood dry
A King may warm his slippers by. "
That's been my experience, too. I would burn elm to get it out of
the way-- The best wood I ever burned was untreated 20' telephone
poles. Most were 30-40 year old locust or red cedar. The cedar
burned super hot and the locust lasted forever. [not to mention they
were all nice straight poles and were free-- and delivered.<g>]
Love Black Locust. The Locust Borer is killing them off around here
and I am cutting everything I can find, currently have more than 40
cords cut/split/stacked and have about 6 more cords "in the round"
waiting to be split. Just cut my last one Monday for this season.
B Locust here is an imported species, most was planted by the settlers
back in the 1800 adn 1900s.
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