splitting / cutting hardwood logs

I got some mixed hardwood kiln dried logs to add to my smokeless (!) fuel f ire for some Christmas spirit. They are a bit large for my 16" fireplace an d might flame up scarily, so they need reducing. I tried to split one using a large chisel and it did not split, then I took 15 minutes sawing and wig gling to extract the chisel. In the end I sawed a log in half with my hardp oint saw. Logs are around 1.5 feet long and about 8 inches across, looks like quarter s of a tree trunk. Will a normal axe (I don't have one) be sufficient to split these ? Simon.

Reply to
sm_jamieson
Loading thread data ...

use a splitting maul or a grenade

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

If you have a hatchet and a lump hammer you can split logs pretty easily without swinging large sharp objects around. A proper splitting axe has a much thicker wedge shape reducing the tendency to get jammed in the log.

Tim

Reply to
Tim+

This might help.

formatting link

Tim

Reply to
Tim+

el fire for some Christmas spirit. They are a bit large for my 16" fireplac e and might flame up scarily, so they need reducing. I tried to split one u sing a large chisel and it did not split, then I took 15 minutes sawing and wiggling to extract the chisel. In the end I sawed a log in half with my h ardpoint saw.

rters of a tree trunk.

Ah, google tells me a splitting maul is like an axe with a long handle. And oh, by grenade you don't mean something I get get by raiding the local TAs, screwfix has one. Well I have a sledgehammer so that sounds good. Cheers, Simon.

Reply to
sm_jamieson

a mallet is better for size of logs you have, and then a way to support the log end on is handy.

if the wood is dry and know free, it takes few taps. You only need sledge power for seriously crap wood, and the sometimes you break the grenade

However me mate with a tractor has a hydraulic one that fits on the back. I'll hire him for the trees that came down and need to come down..

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

Does depend on the wood, seasoned beech goes like concrete...

If something is going to be bought it would be better to get a maul or splitting axe rather than a felling axe or hachet (hand axe). A splitting axe doesn't take much effort to use, just lift it up slowly and let it swing down under it's own weight.

If the OP has those and a lump hammer they would do the job. I guess this is a one off or just annual excercise so spending money on a splitting axe may not be justified.

With the logs already in 1/4's I think grenade would split 'em down into too small a lumps. If they where still in the 16" round that would be different. With an 8" 1/4 log I'd split the point off about midway then the bit with the bark on in 1/2.

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

And a thick heavy wedge shaped head for splitting. A felling axe also has a long handle but a narrow light head designed to cut.

Need to start it some how before you can swing the sledge at it... By the time you've started a grenade changed hammers for the first splitting strike you could have split several logs with a maul.

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

For a really big logs, no more than 300mm long You need three or four metal wedges (stone chisels?) and a sledge hammer. Hammer the first in near the edge and "follow the crack" with subsequent ones. If there is an existing "drying out" crack start there. Keep bashing them in until it splits.

If using and axe don't try to split large logs across the centre. Work round the edges taking off sectors rather then segments.

You need practice to use an axe effectively. Ideally someone to show yo how.

Reply to
harryagain

1.5' is 18" and I'd find it hard to get one that long into my stove. Anything longer than 15" is a struggle to feed in.

Basically the 8" diameter isn't a problem, but the excessive length is. As other have said a log splitting maul or grenade is your best bet, but you may well have to weaken the logs by sawing them mid way. SInec you actually need them shorter rather than thinner. Burn rate is in part determined by exposed surface area.

Be sure to have a fireguard up when unattended in case they are not as dry as you think - sparks can be annoying on an open fire.

I reckon 20" long logs are just about the most unfriendly length.

Reply to
Martin Brown

el fire for some Christmas spirit. They are a bit large for my 16" fireplac e and might flame up scarily, so they need reducing. I tried to split one u sing a large chisel and it did not split, then I took 15 minutes sawing and wiggling to extract the chisel. In the end I sawed a log in half with my h ardpoint saw.

rters of a tree trunk.

Yes, well I've just got the smokeless fuel alight with the aid of a blowtor ch. Seems you have to get enough of it to a certain temperature before the fire is self sustaining. It is blowing a gale here and the kitchen hood ant i backdraught shutter is slapping but from the firelighter smoke a good dra w up the chimney - so far so good. I wont put on any wood until I have the fireguard which is on order. Cheers, Simon.

Reply to
sm_jamieson

fire for some Christmas spirit. They are a bit large for my 16" fireplace and might flame up scarily, so they need reducing. I tried to split one usi ng a large chisel and it did not split, then I took 15 minutes sawing and w iggling to extract the chisel. In the end I sawed a log in half with my har dpoint saw.

ers of a tree trunk.

I used to put 6' logs in whole, when around to feed them in later.

NT

Reply to
meow2222

And a thick heavy wedge shaped head for splitting. A felling axe also has a long handle but a narrow light head designed to cut.

Need to start it some how before you can swing the sledge at it... By the time you've started a grenade changed hammers for the first splitting strike you could have split several logs with a maul.

End quote..

Agreed I bought a grenade used it once a right pain in the proverbial.... Bought splitting maul next, never bothered with grenade again.

Once you get your eye in it's hugely satisfying, worst bit is picking it all up & stacking it ;-)

Cheers Jim K

Reply to
Jim K

Define "really big logs" harry....

Jim K

Reply to
Jim K

I have a log splitter that you put black powder in,belt it in end of log and light it. PS it is really meant for splitting logs for fence posts.

Reply to
F Murtz

Aye, something very satisfiying about the lazy lift, drop, split. Really needs a good sized firm block about 18" off the ground and some one to place the logs for you. Work as a team until there are too many split bits lying about then pick and stack.

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

Agreed. With an open fire and a carpet, you really, really need a sacrificial rug. We tend to buy cheapos that do the job, then get binned and replaced when they become too embarrassing :-)

Anything will spit eventually, and by the time you leap out of your seat, it is too late. Burn mark. I still wouldn't be without an open fire, though.

Reply to
News

I wouldn't have been until we moved and gained a cast iron stove. Wow. Night and day.

Reply to
Adrian

And not just for the flying sparks or embers, an open fire or stove is a very mucky thing from bits off the fuel or the ash.

yep, and how are you going to pick up a red hot ember anyway? Most tongs are designed for decent sized lumps of fuel not an small delicate ember.

A stove shoves out more heat to the room and can be safely left alone. Spark guards are required with an open fire but they don't half block the radiated heat as well.

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

if I ever build a new fireplace it'll take at least 4' logs, if not bigger. Such a waste of time sodding about otherwise.

NT

Reply to
meow2222

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.