Sound proofing / sound isolation

Found an interesting Youtube video on practical wall construction. Anyone here have experience with this sort of thing?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GLjhrXFo0Kw

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wrote:

instead of 2 layers of drywall. use mdf for the first (inner) layer - much higher density. resiliant channel or accoustic glue are both good. Isolating the second wall from both floor and ceiling helps. Mount the wall to the floor using a "dri-core"base - doen't hurt to use it between the top sill and the ceiling joists above either.
The difference between rock-wool and fiberglass IS significant.
The two important things are MASS and ISOLATION. - and of course isolation includes ELIMINATING gaps.
As far as the heat ducts are concerned just insulate well around them and make use of "baffling" - don't have as traight run from one room to another make sure the sound needs to go around a few corners and make sure to "damp" any flat sided ducts. to absorb as much sound vibration as possible. A large thin rectangular duct can act as an AMPLIFIER of sound by re-reflecting it. Damped, the sound does not bounce.
Even installing a second stud system of 2X2 or 2X3 staggered between the 2X4 studs fastened to the same sills, spaced out 1/2 inch so the drywall is fastened to different studs on each side makes a big difference without taking up as much space. - and using accoustic cement to fasten the drywall instead of screws or nails also helps decouple the sound. If the joists run between the 2 spaces instead of parallel as shown in the video, install baffles between the joists - tight fitting MDF or plywood covered with a foam-board works good - even just 2 inch foam board is a lot better than nothing - seal the joints between the baffle and the joists with spray foam or a good relilant caulk. For the ceiling, building a second framework, attached to the studs of the INNER wall and not to the joists above is also a good idea. a few hanger wires mid-span attached to the joists above don't degradethings very much if required to prevent ceiling sag. The ceiling "joists"only need to support the drywall and any insulation - and can be "staggered" between the existing joists to reduce the loss of room height..
If using a complete second wall system the second ceiling framing can be connectes only to the inner wall, and the inner wall can be completely "decoupled" from the ceiling. That's how a friend's home recording studio was done. - with the floor sitting on 2 inch "styrofoam SM) , and the walls built on top of that, withthe ceiling attached to the inner walls only, and the gap filled with blown rock-wool. A bomb could go off in the next room and you wouldn't hear it (double doors too,of course)
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[snnnniiiiippppp]
ah, for the days of lead foil...
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Makes more sense to use block walls and concrete floors, even for the floor above the basement.
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On 2/24/2019 2:51 PM, danny burstein wrote:

In my old church, I installed an organ blower from 1947 which was completely clad in lead. You could barely pick it up!
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Davej posted for all of us...

Why ask a question if you do not follow up with your results of help?
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Tekkie

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On Sunday, February 24, 2019 at 1:47:08 PM UTC-6, Tekkie® wrote:

Results of what?
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Davej posted for all of us...

Your previous questions you have asked. You were given answers to those questions, do you not think we deserve to know what you did with them?
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Tekkie

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On Wednesday, February 27, 2019 at 2:34:27 PM UTC-6, Tekkie® wrote:

You mean because I broke the flow of political rants?
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You are better off ignoring the trolls than responding to them.
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Davej posted for all of us...

No, look back in your postings for the last month. Get back to us.
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Tekkie

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On Wednesday, February 27, 2019 at 7:58:07 PM UTC-6, Tekkie® wrote:

:
e:

se

?
I wonder if egg cartons would be a good sound proofer?
Andy
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NO. They do help sound in a room by breaking up reflection times.
Greg
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Nah. But this guy is a good start. Just be sure to look at other ways to do it.
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On 2/24/19 1:05 PM, Davej wrote:

Many years back, we added onto our two story frame house to build a home office that I used for a professional practice. The contractor built about an eight inch dead space between the new office and the existing house then filled it with rock-wool- floor to ceiling.
Works great!
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