Rust stain on tile

oxalic acid. found in barkeeper's friend in the cleaning aisle of the grocery store.

I use Oxy-Clean to remove rust stains from my porcelain sink. I make a very wet paste and let it sit for a few hours. Maybe yours is a similar problem.

Have you tried the heavy duty Mr. Clean Magic Eraser on it? I swear those things remove just about anything.

Cheri

I haven't tried the Mr. Clean Magic Eraser (and I've got one right in the pantry closet), Oxy-Clean, or Barkeeper's Friend yet! Thanks for all the good suggestions -- I'll report back :)

Jo Ann

Jo Ann wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@k17g2000yqh.googlegroups.com:

I've heard lots of good things about that Magic Eraser. Await your results.

I've had very good luck removing rust from porcelain and counter tops with Barkeeper's Friend. I had never noticed it contained oxalic acid. My exposure to oxalic acid was in products used to remove water stains from wood floors.

With the Barkeeps, I found making a paste, applying with a toothbrush, let it sit for 5min, brush, rinse and repeat to be a successful procedure.

If the above examples won't work, look into Sulfamic Acid - a stronger tile cleaner. Follow directions and even dilute it heavily at first.

RTM.

Save your money and use automotive paint "rubbing compound" for the heavy duty stuff and "polishing compound" for the lighter stuff. Probably about 1/100 the cost of the magic erasers. Oh, but you have to use your own rag or sponge.

Any acid will reduce the iron oxide to an easily removed salt. May take a while depending on acid and strength.

But the tile isn't likely to be actually stained, just have rust physically stuck to it. You should be able to remove it with a mild abrasive such as scouring powder.

Any acid will reduce the iron oxide to an easily removed salt. May take a while depending on acid and strength.

But the tile isn't likely to be actually stained, just have rust physically stuck to it. You should be able to remove it with a mild abrasive such as scouring powder.

Not directly pertinent to your question, but if your laundry room is a basement or otherwise damp, I would get some anti-seize paste (available at any auto parts store) and remove each leveling foot, smear a little anti-sleaze on the threads, reinstall, relevel. I got a used washer from a friend that was in excellent condition save that it had been in the same place for years, when I went to level it for my laundry room, I had to heat up the feet with a torch to remove them, clean up on wire wheel, retap threaded holes, then finally reinstall before I could level it.

If you don't keep appliances for ~20 years this is likely not an issue for you, but I'm a cheap b*****d.

nate

"dadiOH" wrote in news:H3l1n.5499$f% snipped-for-privacy@newsfe25.ams:

Oh you mean like Bar Keepers Friend® and/or Magic Eraser?

Yeah. Or Ajax, Bab-O, etc. which most people are likely to already have :)

I just wish I could have kept my last washer for 20 years! It was an

Shoulda kept the one I bought 20 years ago...it's probably still running.

Jo Ann

I would probably have soldered fly leads to the circuit board and used an automotive fuseholder sticky backed to whatever enclosed the board. but that's just me.

nate

Sure wish you'd been here ;)

Jo Ann

there's usually a good reason for a fuse to blow. chances are the board was fried elsewhere too.

All I know for sure is that both guys who looked at it for me -- both of whom I trust pretty well -- said replacement of the whole unit was the only option. It gave good service while it worked, but I can't help thinking 8 years is not much of a track record. I looked on the net, and there are quite a few reports of similar problems.

Jo Ann

It's an easy repair but something made the fuse blow. Bad connection, power surge, a shorted component, etc. You have to determine what caused a fuse to blow to start with. I would solder in a fuse holder.

TDD