I want to mount an LCD TV above an 8 foot wide door in my bedroom. I
have to run the wires in the finished exterior insulated wall and had
a few questions.
1) From what I read it is okay to notch load bearing wall provdes the
notch is less than 25% of the depth of the stud. Correct?
2) Is it safe to notch the door header (that way I can run the cables
in the gap between the door and the rough opening)? If so how much?
3) I know runing audio cables in the same notch as the AC cable is not
a good idea. What about coax cable (for cable TV)? I really do not
want to notch and repair two notches per stud.
If the ceiling height is above 8', you'll probably have cat beams at around
4'. The door header may not be solid to the sheetrock. I would try to snake
up the wall next to the door then try to open the sheetrock and drill the
studs adjacent to the header and see if there is room to snake between the
header and the sheetrock
Cat beams are always noticed due to the sound they make.
Listen carefully and you will hear them purring. If you open a can of
tuna fish, they will begin saying MEOW MEOW MEOW.....
There you have it. You learned something new today and now have an
enhanced education. Pat yourself on the back, and treat yourself to a
cold drink or a hot woman !!!!
Bad idea for lots of reasons. It seems like a good idea for while lying
in bed, but it is way too high for sustained viewing. And during the
day, light through the door will make the screen hard to see. You can
center-drill studs to 25%, but notching a whole row of studs that deep
weakens the whole wall. If wall is that high, I assume this is a
cathedral ceiling? Feeding from attic into that stud bay would be a lot
better, but you probably don't have an attic above. Second best would be
to feed up from basement into the stud bay beside the door, remove a
strip of drywall above door, and center-drill the studs to the mounting
point. Do you have drapes on this door wall? You could retrim the
doorway and make the casing a little wider, and create a wooden raceway
around the door to run the cables through, by slotting the drywall under
it. (May have to retrim the other doors in the room to match visually,
if the drapes don't disguise the door trim well enough.)
As much as it pains me to throw business their way, you may wanna pay a
visit to local dealer that sells the brackets and fittings- they may
have better ideas. Or ask over in alt.hometheater, or whatever the
appropriate group is called.
*I agree with RBM. It is better to open up the drywall. I am not sure
where you are running the wires from, but if it is a horizontal run I would
cut a length of drywall out about 5" wide and as long as you need to go in
one long piece. That way you can drill holes in the middle of each stud.
If you will be bringing the wires down from the attic you can cut a hole big
enough to get your drill in and drill up through the top plate. Then push a
fish tape up into the attic space and go up and tie your wire onto it.
I would keep the two cables in separate holes.
Cut your drywall at a 45 degree angle to make it easier for patching.
When you replace the plug, it'll be a bit recessed due to the
width of the kerf. I prefer a square cut and to hot melt a couple
of wood strips across the opening. Then, set them firm with
drywall screws. This makes it easy to screw the removed plug back
*To prevent the piece from being too recessed I normally butter both wall
and piece edges heavily with joint compound. A finish coat a day or two
later with a wide knife makes it perfect and no taping is required thanks to
the angle cuts.
On Wed, 24 Mar 2010 11:39:38 -0400, "John Grabowski"
I bought a set, to have on hand, in that great hardware store in
Dallas, and I think also I saw them in an Ace hardware.
They're black, from flat metal, but bent with teeth, prongs, at one
end, a set of four, bent in a way to go both behind and a litte before
the sheetrock that's still there, and behind the patch, iirc, and then
after everythign dries to snap off the rest of it by bending back and
forth, iirc. I guess the part before, that you could see, either
breaks off or it has to covered by compound.
On Mon, 22 Mar 2010 15:13:04 -0700 (PDT), noname87
You can probably test this by running all the same wires outside of
the wall, on the floor if necesary, as close as they would be with one
notch. Tape them together. I presume AC means air conditioning. Test
them by running the AC, turn it down enough that the compressor goes
on too, and at the same time running the tv on all stations you'll be
watching. Test the audio this way too. Although if you say so, they
say it's not a good idea, the world is a complicated place and I've
seen lots of things that aren't supposed to work, work, (counting
everything, not especially in electronics)
For example, I have the tv in this room connected to the DVDR in
another room and a set top box in this room. I tried using channel 3
for one and channel 4 for the other, but there was interference, so
for most of the time since the digital conversion, I've been using an
A-B coax switch to switch inputs. Just 35 minutes ago, I was getting
the same thing on either A or B, and neither was the set-top box. I
went to another room connected to the DVDR and that wasn't it either.
It was playing a signal that came from neither source, and the same
thing on both A and B. How could that possibly happen?
I had to turn the tv off and on, and then everything was back to
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.