Ah yeah, but, the other wire connecting to the T-stat is 120V the other
Hint: if you remove the thermostat on a 240V heater without killing
the breaker, there's 240V between the two wires that _used_ to connect
to the T-stat.[+]
You get your choice - touch a ground and either lead, you get a 120V
shock. Touch both leads and you get a 240V shock.
[+] Or indeed any switch in a 240V circuit.
Age and Treachery will Triumph over Youth and Skill
Back in the halycyon days of my yoot I jury rigged "nite setback" on my
apartment's heating system thermostat by using one of those little
plug-in 24 hour timers, an extension cord and a 6 watt incandescent
I hung the night light on the wall below the thermostat and adjusted the
distance between them so that when the bulb lit during sleeping hours it
tricked the thermostat into dropping the room temperature about 10
degrees. (Same as making the mistake of putting one of the big old
vacuum tube TVs against a wall under the thermostat.)
It wasn't an original idea BTW, there may even have been some
commercially available gadgets back then which did the same thing. And,
in the September 2005 issue of "MAKE" magazine a similar suggestion was
made, but eliminated the timer I used by a photocell controlled night
light, so a setback occurred when the room got dark. Described thusly:
"Make a Thermostat Fooler to update your old home thermostat rather than
buying a programmable one for over $100. Spend $3 for an incandescent
night light and hang it on a string under your thermostat. At night,
heat from the light makes the thermostat think the house is warmer than
it really is. When daylight comes the light goes off and the temperature
controller goes back to normal operation."
Thanks for the mammaries,
Don't just assume there is universal interchangeability between
thermostats, particularly ones which as you indicate are controlling
both heating AND air conditioning.
If I was your landlord I certainly wouldn't appreciate your screwing
around with parts of the most expensive appliance I there without my
knowledge and permission.
Is there some particular reason (other than your being cheap.) that you
don't want to involve the landlord?
On Sep 26, 5:35 am, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
People replying here are making a lot of assumptions about what and
how that thermostat controls your heating and AC.
Also your questions indicates very little, if any, knowledge of
electricity. Do you even have or know how to use a test voltmeter?
There have been enough horror stories about people trying to hook up
low voltage programmable thermostats directly to 230 volt lines; they
burn up and are not returnable! Also line voltage thermostats to low
voltage control circuits, they usually don't work! Had a son in law
who tried that! he also manged to burn out the motor on his aire
xchanger; some people and electrcity don't mix.
If something doesn't work or burns out, even if thermostat seems to
work OK during cooling but does not during heating season an expert
will have to be called in anyway. Please make sure you know what you
are doing, also safety!
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