Replacing a shutoff valve

Jul 01, 2019 38 Replies

You must realise that the pipe coming out of the ground was the start point in the assembly process. You don't know where the finish point was

*inside* the house. That point, the first coupling, will be your start point in reversing the process. You have to find the point where unscrewing one pipe doesn't screw another pipe in tighter at the other end. Then you can work back to your tap from there. You will find that the task will be like Topsy, it'll grow and grow. Far better to fix the issue with the tap and leave the rest of the plumbing be.

The Q? isn't so much where it goes or what it services but where is there a union or the end of a run that can disassemble? As Clare(?) or was it Ed? said in similar vein, you can't just unscrew one piece of pipe out of the middle...

The Q? isn't so much where it goes or what it services but where is there a union or the end of a run that can disassemble? As Clare(?) or was it Ed? said in similar vein, you can't just unscrew one piece of pipe out of the middle...

But, going to the left, clearly there has to be a union, probably fairly close as that one nipple has been replaced. But, to get to the valve you've got to be able to separate the other side of that tee as well...or cut the line and piece in a new union to put it back together and perhaps rethread the cut end...who knows??? we can't see thru the wall to know (nor even the other direction to actually tell but just that the one nipple is new(er) is enough of a klew to tell that side came apart before.

The starting point is either a union or where it *ended*. I could start at the meter, screw on pipe, screw on the valve, screw on pipe, fitting, pipe, fittings, pipe, ending at 5 different places. Without a coupling or cutting it and putting one in, you'd have to reverse that process. His other problem will be that he doesn't have the pipe cutter or threading tools he needs.

You have to find the point where

+1

You will find that

Cutting the pipe, putting in a union is the other option, which sounds far easier so far. Another problem is with old galvanized, it's not unusual to find that it's near failure, with the inside full of rust, narrowing the passageway.

What's wrong with the existing valve? New washer, stem packing won't work?

No threading required if you use a Dresser fitting.

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I bet they would work well if the pipe was fairly new. I'd not trust them on what I saw in the photo though.

Old time plumbers scoff at PVC but that is very popular here, only being displaced by PEX. It is rare to see any copper and threaded pipe was dead 60 years ago except in places where the plumber's union rules. I am over 70 and I have never seen a "new construction" galvanized pipe job for water in a dwelling. They used to use black iron on fire sprinklers but the last job I was inspecting was using orange CPVC sprinkler pipe.

You can - but be prepaired to start dissassembly at the kitchen sink

- or the shower, or whatever was installed last by the possibly clueless plumber that installed it - - - . If there is not a union close to the entry you are literally "screwed"

Particularly if the whole house is still plumbed with iron pipe. It's the job that never ends. You repair a fitting at point 1 and fittings at point 5 , 7, and 11 decide they want attention too - IMMEDIATELY.. They don't give you an option to delay anything!!!

Might be a solution - They have apparently been used for years in certain applications - and definitely the CHEAPEST solution at about

30 greenbacks. Not sure if it is the BEST solution though - and it MIGHT not eliminate the other issue with the "never-ending' repair scenario

That is why I suggested cutting out everything he can get to and replacing it with plastic. You can actually fish PEX in the walls but you will need the tool for putting the rings on. You would need a lot more tools and skill to do threaded pipe so it is a bargain.

Agree with that. Much easier to work with

I was watching a 4 plex being built for a builder friend that was new construction pex and I was talking to the plumber about retrofits and he said one trick is fish the pipe, terminate the fixture end first so you can pull the pipe out to crimp the sleeve then pull it back and fasten the stop. Make your final crimp in the attic or crawl space at the feed. He suggested a little squirt of red/yellow can spray foam in the wall a few places along the run to secure the pipe so it won't rattle. (a little squirt will do the trick, you are not filling the whole cell or anything). Strap it any place you can reach it.

In my corner of the world, the best solution is to rip that galvanized pipe junk out and install copper.

You must be in the same corner as I. I ripped the gal pipe out of my first house and replaced it with copper. In my second house, the gal had already been replaced with copper and this current house had copper from new. ;-)

It is a lot of work replacing the gal with copper. When the pipes barely flowed water because of internal buildup over 45 years, I figured repairs weren't a viable possibility.

_PEX Tubing Technical Specifications_

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Tools can be rented.

I really wanted a rich model with a pickup truck for a wife. So we're even.

It would be a nice trade ;-)

Oh, yeah. I hadn't thought of that.

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