I'd cut off the top of the casing and see about getting a piece to
extend it. Then pull the pump and check it out visually. While it's
out figure out the voltage and amps. That plus the distance form the
house will let you figure out the wire size to run. Buy a piece of
direct burial wire. Presuming the pump looks ok you can briefly power
it out of the well to see if it at least seems to work. Drop it back
down the well and power it up and see if you get water. If it's
pumping water I suggest you run it for a couple hours to see if it
runs the well dry. If all that goes ok you can bury the wire, get a
outdoor junction box and a cap for the top of the casing.
You need to sort out the pressure tank and pressure switch. Each well
needs it's own. SInce each well is servicing a single house they can
be located at the house or the well. If it freezes I suggest at the
Actually, I don't think pressure tanks were previously used for either
well, which might be why the pump for the good well (not the damaged
one) got burned up
shortly after the 2nd house was hooked to it (just a guess). They
suspected a leak in the line to the 2nd house was causing the pump to
run constantly, but I wonder if the use of a tank could have somewhat
avoided damage to the pump?
I wonder how long a pump would last if you just turned it on and left it
It would run a long time but would fail sooner than normal. If it had
a pressure switch somewhere in the line it still should have shut off
the pump. No tank would also cause early pump failure. The pressure
tank keeps the pump from constantly cycling on and off when water is
You need a pressure tank and a pressure switch for each well. The
typical set up is to have the tank and switch at the house. Then run
the power from the switch to the pump. If you are in a location with
no or light freezing you can build a small well cover and put the tank
and switch at the well.
I'd be very surprised if there was no tank before. It's very standard
to have at least a small tank, 20 gallons+ for any residential well
like that. Otherwise you have no pressure buffer and the pump
will short cycle. As stated above, it's usually not at the well head,
but located in the house with a pressure switch.
The only wells I've seen with no tank are for irrigation systems.
In those the demand is constant and the pump is turned on
by the irrigation controller.
I helped drain the water from the heater tanks and the lines from both
houses in preperation for winter absences, and there was no mention of
any pressure tank that needed to be drained. There is no tank at the
well; the well is right next to the house.
There are now "constant pressure" switches. I don't know if they
operate through pressure tank and really haven't dug into how they
operate. My understanding is that they turn on every time water is
drawn. I could be mistaken.
I guess those might avoid pressure swings, if they react fast
enough. Got one of them here. It's set to about 50psi. But the well
still put in a tank and that was for a system that is used for
plus some general yard use, not potable water. The fancy valve
just keeps the pressure constant. I think it's essentially two valves
parallel with the water flow from the well. One valve has a large
capacity and only opens at 50PSI+, The other path goes around
the bigger valve and is open all the time, but only allows a small
amount of water to flow. Hence you can get all the water the
well will deliver at 50psi or below. Above that the water can still
flow to finish bringing the pressure up slowly until the pump turns
Well installer here would have eliminated the tank if it was for
the automatic sprinkler system only. But since we wanted it
to use with a regular hose, bucket, etc, then he added the
tank. Which makes sense to me, because with the sprinklers
you have constant demand for a long time. With a house you
have small incremental usage, which with all the starts and
stops would wear out a pump with or without the constant
pressure valve and also use more electricity.
The well cap has an elbow in it for the electrical, so I don't see why
they would have run the electrical in through any other point.
Last time I was up there, I could see a green T-shaped thing about 2
feet down that is
probably the pitless adapter. I'll take some pics within the next few days and
There is a pvc line terminating openly above ground near the well, so
I'd guess that's what leads to the well. If I could just get the proper
power to the existing line, I should be able to test it like it is.
Is that PVC broken off? Normally they put a T into the line after it
exits the pitless adapter. The top of the T is brought up next to the
well head and is plugged so it can be used for testing, or blowing
out the line for winterization if needed, etc. The other question in
you case is what's going on with the other end of the line that used
to go to the trailer. If you turn on the pump you may see water
coming out not only at the PVC you see by the well, but over
where the trailer used to be.
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