After 30 years, the time has come to re-roof my 8x12 shed as there has
been a significant leak that has developed. Having never done any
roofing before, I'd appreciate suggestions as to the process through
links, instructions, etc.
Also, since I won't have the time to re-roof for a couple of weeks yet,
I'm wondering if I could apply roofing cement over the leaking area as
a temporary solution. The area leaking seems to be affecting
approximately a 6x12" area underneath.
On Wednesday, April 10, 2013 7:19:05 AM UTC-4, Jason wrote:
Well, theoretically it will work. But human nature will intervene. You'll
never get back to the roofing job.
What kind of roof? Standing seam metal? Built up? Shingled? Tile?
How bad is the sheathing underneath? Has the shed been re-roofed a couple of
times, so there are several layers of shingle?
The only *slightly* complicated part is cutting the shingles for the
peak. You need to do that angle thing so that it looks neat when you
About half way down this site they show the proper angle layout for
Oh wait, maybe the OP will want to add ridge and soffits vents. He'll
need to determine the proper square inches of intake vs. outflow for a
6' x 12' shed. There, that ought to get a lively discussion
Years ago, I came home from work and saw my neighbor and a few of his
friends up on the roof of his house. They had already stripped off the
old shingles and had started nailing down the new ones. They had just
completed the first "course". I put that in quotes because they
installed it *vertically*, from the soffit to the ridge. My neighbor
saw me pull up and yelled down "How do I installed this next bunch
without having a lump where they overlap?"
When I pointed out that shingles are installed in "rows" not "columns"
he was pretty embarrassed. I went inside and grabbed a home repair
book that had a pretty good chapter on roofing. I suggested he do some
reading while his friends were removing the shingles that they had
I can't believe it!! I had to look at your cite to see what you
meant. I seem to have
forgotten about those angled cuts in spite of having reroofed my
garage, 2 sheds and a woodshed not all that many years ago. What good
is a memory if you can't forget? :)
Ok, thanks for the posts so far. Just to update, this is a wooden shed
with asphalt shingles. Someone asked what type of roof.... well, if you
take an octagon and cut it in half and place it on the shed that's the
kind of roof it has. So there are technically 3 peaks and none of them
very steep. Yesterday, I temporarily patched up the area with a
moderate quantity of roofing cement. After last night's rain, it seemed
to stop the leaking.... for now. In a couple of weeks, I'm going to try
and replace the roofing. Yes, this layer will have to be removed first
as there is at least one rotten spot underneath and maybe others as well
although it doesn't look like it from inside.
My biggest concern is what quantity of shingles I'll need and the best
way to go over the peaks. BTW, it doesn't look like there was any drip
edge originally although I think I'll install one.
A "square" of shingles is enough to cover 100 sq ft of roof. Shingles
I must be losing it. 8' x 12' = 96 sq ft which says that one "square"
of shingles is all you ned. That can't be right as the normal 3
bundles of shingles is not going to cover that much roof.
Where is my error???
in 3 bundles per square.
On Apr 11, 6:10 pm, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I would buy 4 bundles of shingles. You can always take an unopened
bundle back if you don't use it. Just make sure that they all have the
same manufacture lot#. This way they should match. You should be
able to do this roof in a day. I did an 18x22 shop in 2 days. Just
follow the directions on the bundle. On most three-tab shingles, 4
nails is sufficient. Unfortunately, when the city where I live, made
me use 6 nails due to we are in a high-wind zone. Once you tear off
the old shinges to the expose the sheathing, make sure you replace any
rotten boards.Then start at the bottom and work your way up. Just
make sure to stagger your edges.
96 square feet is for a flat roof with no overhang, starter strips, or
With a pitched roof you would have to calculate the total rise (squared)
plus the total run (squared), then take the square root. Then add the
overhang at the bottom, add the overhangs to the width, then multiply for
total square footage.
Of course, on a building that size, it would be easier to grab a tape
measure and measure the height and width of each side. I always get a
couple extra bundles for starter strips, ridge caps, and to keep a few
extras on hand for making repairs when needed.
I don't know the part about how to go over the peaks.
But, here is how to figure the actual square footage of roof surface area
that you have now:
Assuming that the shed is 12 feet long, and along the 8 foot ends the roof
line goes up to the top of the roof and back down to the other side in 4
sections (two sections up and two sections back down) -- measure along the
edge of each of the 4 sections, and add those four numbers up. For example,
if each of those edges is 2-1/2 feet, the total of the 4 would be 10 feet.
Then multiply the total length of the 4 edges times the 12 foot length of
In the example above, that would be 10 feet times 12 feet, or 120 square
feet of roof surface area. If the edges are each 3 feet instead of 2-1/2
feet, the surface area would be the 3 feet times 4 = 12 feet, times the 12
foot length of the shed = 144 square feet of roof surface area.
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