Re: Battery vs. AC drill/screwdriver

Jul 11, 2022 Last reply: 4 years ago 37 Replies
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They used to advertise this a lot, IIRC for $90 with the coupon.

I found a picture of the cheap generator (2 stroke) at the bottom of the page. I clicked on the link and at said not found. Returning to the page showed that I had viewed it, even though there seems to be no such page.

I know someone who had one. It worked but was hard to start.

That sounds like the Amazon cheapie. 49cc two-stroke. A common thread was hard starting, hunting, and poor regulation measured with a DVM. Nobody put a scope on it but I doubt the waveform was much better. It would probably be okay for motors.

I have one of the HF $ 90 or so. Hard to start but I give it a shot of starter fluid and it starts right up. Somkes for a while and then clears up. I just use it for motors or lights. It is a 2 cycle engine. They msy not hace them now, but here is a link about them. The price has gone up some.

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LOL. I do have 4 other drills. A craftsman 3/8" VSR that I bought about 1970 and it's still in fine condition.

Then later I found a drill on the sidewalk in an industrial area of Brooklyn, dirty even on the metal sides, but I cleaned it up and it works fine. I think it's variable speed but not reversing.

Then I was at the Black & Decker store and they were telling the guy in front of me that it wasn't worth the money to fix his drill. Did he want it back or should they toss it. He said they can toss it and I said, In that case, can I have it. They gave it to me and I had it fixed in 30 minutes after I got home. I just put a washer or two on the armature so it doen't go back and forth anymore. VSR, still works fine.

Then to treat myself I bought a 1/2' hammer drill from Harbor Freight. I've never used the hammer part. Is it enough to destroy a 2 foot high pile of scrap cement or concrete that some lazy contractor left in my woods??? Will it do anything at all? (I don't own them but I'm th only one who uses them.)

They werre all 30% or more off, and I don't think Amzaon marks things up just so they can mark them down.

Yes, I learned, but they had 8 cordless and NO corded.

Aha, that's the best kind. Some of my stuff only has a Baltimore hook and I'm not even sure they work in the suburbs.

A cryptic sentence: Use the universal hook only when necessary. Lay the screwdriver down in a safe place when it is not in use for a long period. -- Aha, they must be talking about the whole tool, now known as a screwdriver.

Very nice.

Good.

Don't take chances.

That's a pretty good suggestion. You were the only one who replied to more than one or two parts of the long question. You win a prize.

Thanks, and thanks everyone,

Gut the battery and add a cord with a lighter plug and a lighter socket on 'gator clips. A friend built a whole airplane with a 7.2? volt drill run off a 12 volt car battery in his "off-grid" shop.

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I assume you mean concrete. Cement is the binding agent used make concrete. Unless the cement has gotten wet, it doesn't typically end up as a 2' high pile of hard "rock".

That said, I guess that depends on what you mean by "destroy" and the type of concrete you are working with. Strength, thickness, rebar, etc. are just a few of the factors involved.

Some hammer drill have 3 settings. Drill, Drill-Hammer, Hammer.

In Hammer mode the spindle does not spin. Only the hammer feature is activated. Call it a mini-jackhammer. You can buy chisel bits which may get the job done for you. (Or you could rent an electric jackhammer and get it done much more quickly)

Wedges and Feathers might work for you. Use the hammer drill to drill holes in the concrete, insert the wedges, then the feathers and hammer the feathers in until the concrete cracks. Wedges and Feathers (also known as Plugs and Feathers) have been used to split rock for centuries.

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And then there's Dexpan or equivalent - Non-Explosive Demolition Agent.

Drill holes with the hammer drill, pour the agent in the hole and wait for the agent to expand, cracking the concrete.

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...snip...

But you may think about it again. When your cheap drill doesn't last or doesn't have the power to do what you want it to do, you'll wonder why we are so hyped up on cordless tools. It won't be us that got it wrong, it'll be you for buying a POS tool. I mean that in the nicest way possible, so just be prepared. When you are frustrated with the tool, just keep in mind that it might be that specific tool, not cordless drills in general.

I've used cheap cordless tools and I've used good ones. The performance difference is well worth the cost difference.

As my kids bought houses and needed tools, even if just for general home maintenance, I never bought them cheap tools. I didn't buy the top of the line, but I didn't buy $40 drills either. If you don't know what you are doing, and you try to learn by using a POS tool, you'll get frustrated and either think "This stuff is really hard!" or "Man, I suck at this." Either one of those will make you want to stop learning, when it's not you or the task that's the problem, it's the tool. If the tool makes things easy, you'll grab it more often and each time you do, you learn a little more and your skills will keep on growing.

For the small bit that Micky is talking about a sledge or maul would be sufficient to reduce the concrete to dust.

Depending on the concrete - sometimes it breaks up fairly easily with a sledge hammer - like the fence post anchoring cement mix .. been there done that recently. John T.

When old Mr Eix put in the stabling in the barn he used the strongest cement he could mix. 70 years later, young Mr Eix wanted the box stalls removed and I was a 13 year old working for him for the summer. The sledge hammer BOUNCED off that stuff - took me 2 weeks swinging that sledge to get the box stall knocked out. What I would have given for a concrete saw and a jack-hammer!!!

Like the cistern in my childhood home - crappy insulbrick 4-room shack - but the cistern was like a bomb shelter .. John T.

Isn't there a tool rental near you? A proper breaker will make short work of your concrete.

Some tools just aren't worth buying, if they'll be used only once or twice. I know that's heresy in these parts, but unless you just like seeing tools sitting on the shelf, it's often the smart move.

The few times we've had to make penetrations in our masonry house, we just rented a core drill.

When I bought my house, the floor of the basement shower stall was the slab itself. The drain hole was the size of a sink drain and, in fact, a standard sink strainer was used to prevent objects from falling down the drain.

When I got around to installing a proper stall I had to move the drain, so I had to break up the slab to get to the pipes. I mentioned to a neighbor that my sledgehammer and cold chisel just wasn't getting the job done.

He told me something that I've never forgotten:

"If you're working too hard, you're probably using the wrong tool."

The next day he borrowed an electric jackhammer from work and dropped it off. I completed the demolition in less than an hour.

... Major Snippage Occurred...

You said 501(c)(3). An HOA is a 501(c)(4).

Maybe that's why you don't have most of "that".

A 501(c)(4) is not a charitable organization - perhaps in more than just the legal definition.

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"A homeowners' association described as a social welfare organization under Section 501(c)(4) must primarily engage in promoting the common good and general welfare of the people of the community."

... More Major Snippage Occurred...

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