I want to install
prewiring the system for
drywall is not up, so
Hi John,
It is VERY wise to prewire for an alarm system. However, due to the huge number of variations between systems, you really should window-shop the residential alarm business and target the installation for one or two of the available systems to be precisely chosen at a later date. Research should initially include, IMO, things such as:
-- Local codes, if any, regarding residential alarms.
-- Telco requirements/rules regarding residential alarms.
-- Install method: Open loop wiring closed loop wiring, digital, RF (radio transmitters and receivers), eg the types of systems available.
-- Personally, I prefer,and use, and RF system; no wiring except ac to the main equipment box (with internal battery backup operation).
-- Type/level of protection needed -- Fire? -- Burglary? -- Remote Appliance Controls? -- Listen-in features? -- Flooding? -- Freeezing? -- Motion? -- Alarm Monitoring Company to respond to alarms? -- and so on thru glass breakage detectors, and many more.
-- How many zones are required? I have 6 available, each capable of 8 alarms. Not all used.
So, basically, you need to post more information if you would like good answers, IMO. If you're ignorant of many of these items, as most people are, then some online research can help considerably.
On the other hand, if you are going to have this installed for you, then I would get a couple of quotes from a couple of installers of alarm systems. Probably more accurate.
Radio Shack is a good place to start research, believe it or not. Try a Google search for "residential alarm systems" (including the quotes) and you'll get a plethora of links where you can learn a LOT, and get edumacated about alarm systems.
If you wish to come back here, I'll be happy to answer questions where I can, or at least maybe give you a source where you can find answers.
Here are a couple of clarifications/corrections to some incorrect information I saw posted to you:
CAT 5 (Category 5) wire:
-- Is NOT stranded wire; it's solid, 24 gauge wire, 4 pairs, 8 conductors total, in a sheath a little larger than the standard telephone wiring.
-- CAT 5 wire is NOT large: it fits easily thru a 1/4" drilled hole.
-- There was a lot of talk about "4 wire" and while much of the phone wiring is actually 4 wire, and only 2 of those are used, keep in mind that they are in a 6 pin plug, not a 4 pin. It's called RJ-11.
-- There was talk about difficulty closing a window becvause of wire size or somethbing like that: that would not be a good insallation and isn't normal. Ignore it, IMO.
-- There is nothing that would require CAT 5 cabling, but, that said, should you ever wish to network computers together later on, you'd be mighty glad to have it already in place. Maybe a separate issue there. There are RF networks too, that avoid wiring between computers, but they're not very good. Yet. Improving though.
closet or out of
== NO, the main alarm equipment BOX, which contains the logic and computer controls, is usually located in a separate closet! The "control panel" is usually located convenient to the most used exit for convenience in arm/disarm ing the system. There are often other sub-control panels, smaller in size and function, located to serve the garage, back door, wherever they are deemed needed.
sometimes smoke
plus may == ONLY if three separate alarm systems were installed, which wouldn't make much sense. These days there is usually only one external power pack IFF it's a Class-2 system, and as often as not, in a quality system, there is no external power pack; it's insecure to have external power packs. The better systems are hard wired. Outlets should be nearby, preferrably two duplex outlets, but ... not for several alarm system components.
== There SHOULD be a dedicated breaker for the alarm ckt, however.
HTH. Any questions as you get going, happy to try to help or at least find a source for your answers.
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