Please help identify switch

Oftentimes such are OEM-specific so you have to find something that meets function rather than specific 1:1 replacement.

It would be helpful if there were a Leviton part no besides the ratings; what they show is you need something rated 3A @ 125VAC.

On 15 Jul 2018, dpb wrote in alt.home.repair:

I see no part number, but you may be right about it being an OEM part. "Leviton" is embossed on the plastic/Bakelite back, but "UND LAB INC" is engraved on the metal, and that appears to be an actual company name. I sent an email to Leviton, but don't really expect them to respond. Meanwhile, I will cook wearing my miner's helmet.

On 15 Jul 2018, BQ340 wrote in alt.home.repair:

I would think it's a pretty standard switch, since it's not doing anything very fancy. I would have liked to have found the exact same brand and model switch but they're probably not made any more. I see others similar to the ones you cite at amazon:

That's Underwriters Lab, which means it's UL certified. It has nothing to do with who make it, which is Leviton. I seriously doubt it's a custome part, it was probably a common Leviton switch at the time, no need for anything fancy for that application. The key things are the mounting hole size and that space is not tight behind it. In which case you should be able to find one that fits. Hole is probably a standard size, you could ream it out if need be I guess. It also needs to be rated for 125V, 3A or higher.

and that appears to be an actual company

It is a company name. Underwriters Laboratories Inc. They don't make anything, they test products to assure they meet certain specifications.

You may get lucky and find it at an appliance repair shop. Especially one that has been in business for a long time and is an authorized GE shop..

On 7/15/2018 6:56 PM, trader_4 wrote: ...

...

It's not that there's anything special about the switch itself, it's just that they're often not made except for OEM applications and thus not available elsewhere as standard Leviton catalog item...

On 15 Jul 2018, trader_4 wrote in alt.home.repair:

Doh! Of course. I should have seen that.

What about the spec "1A-250V"? Is that something I need to pay attention to?

Not unless you're switching 250 volts. The switch can handle 1 amp at that voltage.

On 15 Jul 2018, Dean Hoffman wrote in alt.home.repair:

I want to assume I'm only dealing with 120V. All there is in there is a fan and a 40W light bulb. But the wiring disappears into the cabinetry and the wall as does the and I'm not prepared to open that can of worms. I'm looking for a manual to check its installation instructions.

On 15 Jul 2018, Nil wrote in alt.home.repair:

I found a manual on-line. It's not the exact same model, but it's close enough that I'm confident that the voltage requirement is the same. It is, indeed, 120 VAC.

I think BQ put you on the switch a while ago

The Resolution:

I emailed Leviton and a local electronics parts store about identifying the mystery switch. Leviton responded to say that they stopped making industrial switches of that kind many years ago. I suspected that might be true, as they seem to mainly be into residential light switches these days. The local store never responded. I decided to take a chance and I bought a switch from Amazon that seemed to be similar to some suggested in this thread. It wasn't expensive.

I installed it today. It did sorta work, but the light was only off or on, no dim setting, and you had to push the button 4 times to cycle back to Off. It was adequate, but I didn't like the way it worked or felt.

Then I opened up the old switch - not hard to do, just pry open three metal tabs on the back. The mechanism inside is pretty clever - pushing the button pushes a spring-loaded corkscrew-shaped tab that rotates a little ratcheted wheel against the three wire's contacts. Each push of the button advances the wheel one notch. It was obvious what the failure was: the little spring had finally, after 40 years of use, broken. I ended up cannibalizing a ballpoint pen for its spring, which I cut to length. I thoroughly cleaned all the little parts, lubricated it with a tiny dab of Vaseline, and reassembled it. Its click felt right, so I re-installed it in the range hood, and it works fine! With some luck it will last for another 40 years, and now I know it can be fixed with a ball point pen.

So, all's well. Thanks to everybody for your thoughts and suggestions.

On 15 Jul 2018, Nil wrote in alt.home.repair:

On 20 Jul 2018, Bob F wrote in alt.home.repair:

Thanks! It all depended the spring inside the switch being like one I had on hand. If I had had to shop around for some weird-ass size or stiffness of spring, I wouldn't have bothered trying to rebuild it. Luckily it turned out to be almost just like the one in a ball-point pen. I opened up three different pens before finding just the right one.