Why is a solid backing needed behind a pedestal sink? The pedestal does
support it, doesn't it?
In any event, I'm planning to install one that I found--at a time when I
was considering buying one--that had been left at the curb in great
condition. It's a Glacier Bay model. Of course, I have no installation
instructions, no measurement guide, no drilling pattern. Any tips about
making sure I fasten the sink to the wall at just the right location?
Also, I'm not sure what kind of fasteners to use. One of the old ones
was still stuck into the hole in the back of the sink--it's got a
metallic anchor that runs most of the length of the bolt. I'm not sure
how that works with drywall with a wood plank behind it--I thought
anchors were for drywall-only attachment.
Actually, not really. The pedestal is mostly there to hide the pipes under
the sink. It's primarily decorative.
As for the questions on installation, I can't help you, but I'm sure someone
here can. You might cruise through your local home depot to see if you can
find out what model Glacier Bay sink you have. If you can do that, you can
probably order the installation manual from the company or from Home Depot.
Check the manufacturer's web site. Similar models are attached in
The pedestal bears the weight. It has no capability to withstand an
overturning force - called a moment - such as when someone is leaning
on the edge of the sink.
A traditional pedestal sink, sure. Some of the modern ones I have seen, not
so much. In some cases it is almost decorative. Any wall-hung or wall-
fastened sink should have solid backing behind the attachment points. Even
if you hit the stud spacing exactly, a row of blocking stiffens the wall
against twisting and bowing. On a pedestal sink, even if the pedestal takes
the sink and water weight, if a person leans or stumbles against sink, that
is a LOT of leverage pulling against the wall anchors. Overbuilding stuff
like this takes so little effort at installation time, that it is very cheap
As to the brackets- a plumbing supply, rather than a big-box, or perhaps a
ReStore or salvage place, will likely have matching parts for you. (My
sister once scored matching feet for a 80 year old clawfoot, at the first
place she tried.)
You have gotten conflicting advice so far in this thread. Most everyone may
be right based on their experiences and the sink they installed. The better
ones have a traditional style hanger bar and the pedestal for support. The
cheaper ones omit the hanger bar and you have to break your back to attach
it with lag bolts which are not furnished. That latter one would be the Home
Cheapo $39 model.
IMO, for any of them you need wood behind the drywall. Either for the
hanger or the lag bolt.
All the pedestals I have seen also have holes in the bottom of the base to
screw the base to the floor. I use fender washers and #8 hex heads on wood.
On concrete I use the washers and tapcons.
You may be able to buy and use a universal hanger bar if your sink takes
one. Chances are you will have to go to a real plumbing supply house to buy
one. The BORG just won't have it.
You can make do with out instructions by placing some masking tape on the
wall, setting the sink on the base, leveling it L_R and F_B and then
scribing a line on you tape. Careful measuring will then tell you where to
place the hanger bar.
Have I ever hung one with out the wood? Yes for the hanger bar model. Use
3 or 4 toggle bolts and washers to attach the hanger bar. This trick will
only work with a pedestal type.
It's not an either/or situation - the sink is supported by both the
wall anchors and the pedestal. There are sinks designed for anchoring
into a wall only (some very cool, highly stylized ones, too), but I am
unaware of a free-standing pedestal sink that doesn't require some
sort of attachment to a wall.
Considering the pedestal, though, can only effectively handle direct,
downward weight, you need solid anchoring into the wall to handle off-
center forces such as when someone leans on one side of the sink and
the like. Toggle bolts into drywall will certainly not handle it, nor
will doing so into plaster (or plaster over lath). To ensure a sink
that will last you forever without needing remounting, I would
encourage some sort of refit behind the wall of a cross-piece between
your studs. It's messier, more complicated and a bigger pain in the
neck than maybe you want, but the work will pay for itself in peace of
And like so many DIY jobs, this also is one where you get what you pay
for. The higher priced sinks I've seen have better designs for
anchoring and much better pedestal-to-sink fit to ensure a stable
installation than do the bottom-tier set-ups I've seen (and bought) at
the BBS (big box store).
That's what I thought too. The pedestals are narrow compared to the
basin. Even if they supported the entire weight, you'd need good
attachment/support from the wall to keep it from falling over if
someone leans on it.
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