That may be PART of your problem. I wonder where/how you stored what was
left of the original paint...garage, very high temp?
That is plain crazy....no modern paint is supposed to run like low-fat
milk. Most are like thick cream. It is beginning to seem that you
haven't the faintest idea what the label says or why it says what it does.
If you are painting plain, flat interior drywall, I think it would be
best to sand the wall with fine sandpaper and start over with fresh
paint from a good brand paint store. The nonsense of drying in 10 sec.
or being so runny is just ridiculous.
Paint ALWAYS needs stirring....perhaps the reason you got no brush marks
from that paint is that you used the thinner, upper part of the liquid
and left the heavy solids in the bottom
I would not bother painting unless I used quality (yes, expensive)
paint, roller and/or brush. Good brushes are expensive, but with proper
care will last a lifetime. That said, it takes time and practice to
gain skill at painting...most of the paint companies have all kinds of
tips for choosing product, clear instructions for use, and
skill-building advice. A good paint store can also advise what
additives are useful or beneficial...a business with experience knows
what the sell and how to use it best. Good luck!
On Friday, August 23, 2013 7:30:25 PM UTC-4, NorMinn wrote:
I agree about the thickness. I haven't done any painting in quite
a while and last year painted a couple of rooms with Benjamin Moore.
It was thicker than I remember other paints being from 15 years ago,
but it was by far the best performing paint I've ever used. No
brush strokes where cutting in, no back spatter from the roller,
beautiful finish, right out of the can.
At the same time, I just had the fast drying experience that the OP
is talking about. That was with Zinnser oil based stain killer.
It was drying so fast, I was having a hard time getting the brush
strokes out. First I thought it was because it was going on
areas that had been repaired, covered with mud. But it performed
pretty much the same on the areas that were previously painted.
If I has something to thin it with, I would have done
so, but I wanted to get through the job, so I toughed it out.
Still, as it dried it did pretty much level itself out, but next time if
I need that type of product, I would choose a different brand.
But again that was with a stain killer, so they may be thicker
and have different properties than a regular latex paint.
If the paint is drying as fast as he says, I think the advice
to take it together with some materials to the store and show
them what it's doing is good advice. And I'd be choosing a
different brand of paint next time.
On 8/24/2013 1:03 PM, email@example.com wrote:
I normally use BM, but got some Sherwin Williams exterior alkyd semi
when I stripped and painted exterior trim on my daughter's house. That
paint was like pancake batter, it was so thick, but it went on, spread,
levelled like a dream!
I think Zinsser has a water-based stain blocker, don't they? I know the
shellac based primer dries pretty fast, but I had to sand that project
anyway. Zinsser, I think, might be the oldest of the reliable
stain-blockers, but I would use any of the good brands if they make a
stain-blocker....the labels are pretty reliable.
I used Zinsser water-based (IIRC) on dark walnut-colored Formica
bathroom cabinet....if it didn't work, I would have ripped it out.
Worked fine, with semi alkyd over the primer after repairing the
powdered particle-board doors that had gotten wet. Moisture would seep
between the two Formica surfaces and pop the particle-board. Same thing
with an old kitchen cabinet...I now smear a touch of silicone caulk into
the seams of Formica on my counter to keep unnoticed puddles from
getting down to the p.b.
That's not "high quality paint." It's junk.
Even with a junk brush, decent paint will self-level.
Didn't you post before about some paint that wouldn't dry?
If that was you, maybe you should hire somebody to buy your paint and
do your painting.
Anyway, here's a few tips for everybody who's running into junk paint.
Buy a quart - or pint if available - and try it out before you pay up
for gallons. There's garbage paint out there.
If paint doesn't brush or roll well, thin it. Be careful, and thin it
very little at a time. If you overthin - it's now junk.
And don't use old paint. Buy it when you'll use it, and throw away
whatever's left over.
Whether oil or latex, only put what you'll use in one work session
into the work container, and keep the rest sealed in the can.
As soon as your brush becomes saturated near the handle, dirty,
or stiffens anywhere, stop. Clean your gear.
Same with rollers, but different. If they skip on the surface, or
don't leave a smooth, self-leveling surface, something's wrong.
Stop and figure out what's wrong.
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