Many new heaters have a "turbulator" that prevents or greatly reduces sediment buildup. Mine is at least 15 years old - I installed it to replace the original that was something like 18 years old one Christmas Eve when it decided to go FUBAR. I flushed it just for the heck of it yesterday and the water was barely cloudy with no signs of rust. Standard GSW gas heater.
One thing that IS required now in KW area is a temperature control valve - mixes hot and cold to prevent outlet temp from the heater exceding 49C (120 F) - which by the time it reaches the far end of the house is just over luke-warm.
Another reason to DIY - the licenced plumber is not allowed to do the install without that cranky valve.
Home Despot may not survive either - and they also buy by price. A lot of what they carry is at best second rate too.
Evidently you haven't been in areas subject to seismic activity. Flexible connectors are *required*.
Also required by some jurisdictions whether or not earthquakes are a problem, like where I live. A moisture trap is also required in the line.
Your plumber did nothing wrong by installing polybutylene pipe. The massive problems with polybutylene was because of improper installation, not defective material. Many plumbers first action was to throw away the installation instructions...they knew every thing already. Improper assembly and crimping of the connectors was the problem.
I continue to use polybutylene in my home and have NO problems...but I did take time to read and understand the instructions that came with the connectors and crimper.
You may have one of the brighter plumbers.
Boden
People tell me that that would be a code violation:: T&P valve must not discharge uphill.
Perce
That's true. There's also a limit to the number of bends in that line. Mine are dumping on the floor for that reason as well, although I have thought about just ignoring the code and piping them into the deep sink. (I could do it easily; just not without having too many bends.) I have a small catch container under each one; if I see any moisture in one I will replace T&P valve immediately.
nate
Hmm. Both of mine (I have a duplex) go up and over, then back down inside the brick veneer. There is an exhaust pipe about 1' above the ground (with an elbow pointing down).
Your observation does, however, make sense in that any water trapped in the pipe may linger around the valve causing corrosion.
They deserve not to survive with such a bigoted company founder wishing death on potential customers:
Bob F gets my vote for best and most succinct response in the thread.
I installed my AO Smith 40-gal. gas FSG in '92. Just finished pulling anode, etc. Draining from tank shows nearly no sediment. Anode is pretty well pitted, but not at all trashed. After
16 years light use in St. Louis, MO, USA.Now, if I could just find a replacement anode ... :-)
P"Take Yo' Hand Out My Pocket (I Ain't Got Nothing What Belongs To You)!" - Rice Miller, who probably never even _heard_ of GW Bush, Paulson, etc
I didn't say he wasn't smart. Every customer with PB has to call him for every repair because he's the one with the crimpers. Cash cow.
Shell was sued for faulty materials and installation. With a billion dollars at stake, why didn't they demonstrate that plumbers had failed to follow instructions?
Why haven't other countries had problems? Is it only in America that some plumbers don't follow instructions? Why does the Plumbing Claims Group insist that PB is reliable yet use only C-PVC?
The PB manufacturers group hired HDR Engineering of Bellevue WA to see if chlorine compounds found in drinking water attack the plastics used in PB fittings. Steve Reiber of HDR says yes.
Plumbing contractor Tom Sagau defends PB. He says the problem is that crimpers must constantly be calibrated because if a crimp is too tight, the pipe will split later. So the customer has a time bomb if the plumber makes a small error.
Wayne Bryant, a marketing representative for the Plumbers & Steamfitters Local 741, says they had their doubts about PB in the 1970s and they still do. He says it's buyer beware.
I ordered mine from waterheaterrescue.com. Wasn't able to find a local source for anything larger than RV sized.
nate
Thanks. I'll check 'em out.
P"Take Yo' Hand Out My Pocket (I Ain't Got Nothing What Belongs To You)!" - Rice Miller, who probably never even _heard_ of GW Bush, Paulson, etc
it was exciting and upsetting seeing water spraying everywhere.
common surprises me, leak was near top
A couple of years ago, we had to replace our 66-gal. electric, and the cheapest source was Sears., $380, or at least $50 cheaper than Lowe's and Home Depot, neither which had the product in stock.
if u say money is no object, just replace it and stop talking about it. henry
I wonder what a real plumbing supply would have charged.
until they're open sometime when I can get to their counter, I'll never know. That's probably a big reason why the Big Boxes are so successful, as awful as they are.
nate
Point taken. but . . . . . . . . When I needed a circulator, the big box stores were $65. Supply New England was $42. I was able to wait.
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