I manage my own and have managed for others, single family homes for
over 25 years while being a license real estate broker. I used to
work with clients (buy, sell, manage, etc... ) but now only for
myself. I could answer these questions but won't because unless it's
around Houston, Tx., the answers could be different. You really need
to see what the competition is doing in your area so you can be
competitive. I'd suggest to talk to at least 2 Realtors locally and
ask them these questions and let them show you on paper the
competition to see what they provide as well as the pricing. I might
also suggest to list with a Realtor because they can do a lot of work
for you, answer your follow up questions and provide the lease as
well. Our lease over the years has gotten so long that it's now15
pages. It's quite comprehensive of course. Of course it's only a
piece of paper if you know what I mean. Oh some Realtors can manage
your property if you don't feel comfortable doing it but be careful.
You really only want experienced managers. Also check what the
licensing requirements for others to manage your property are, if you
go that route. I could tell you stories about managing property for
others but I don't know if it would help you. Besides if you don't
go this route, I'm wasting your time.
Really no guidelines, it's between you and the tenant, and of course
can pretty much be adjusted by changing the rent.
I'm facing the same question, whether I can or should sell a house in
this awful market or try to rent it out to carry for a couple of
years, and if so just what to include.
As a landlord renting can either be a breeze or a nightmare, or
anything in between. Depends on the tenant of course, and also on
events, what happens to break and why.
"Officials at the Office of the Secretary of State say e-mails circulating
about a Homestead Exemption Tax Amendment are fake.
"The e-mail in question says voters must choose whether or not to keep the
homestead tax cap for people 65 and older. Spokeswoman Ashley Burton said
that the e-mails are completely false and that there are no statewide
initiatives on the ballot for the May election."
Ok, my apologies for rabble rousing.
But we won - so it's a good thing too.
I'm the mortgage holder so that qualifies as #2 but the mortgagee also
owes property taxes so while I tried to foreclose and am the first
lien holder, taxes still take priority over my position. Of course
he stopped the foreclosure with his bankruptcy but the bankruptcy plan
still had to include property taxes and my first lien position, then
the rest he owes to others. Just as a side note, there is a meeting
to dismiss the bankruptcy because he's not following the plan to pay
the trustee. Should it be dismissed, I will foreclose. There's a
lot more to this story but it's not needed to say here.
The seams that connect the lengths of the large box gutters around our house
leak. The house is about 10 years old and the gutters are aluminum formed
on site. The seams have leaked ever since the house was about 2 years old.
I've scraped off the sealant at the joints inside the gutters and renewed it
every few years, but the leaks always come back. Time for a new approach --
You don't tell what brand of silicone. The only one I will use is
DowCorning 795. Gutter work will work much better with butyl rubber
caulk - it is difficult and stringy to apply but will last indefinitely.
The only good way to work gutter joints is to take it apart, clean,
apply butyl, reassemble. Smearing caulk on the surface won't work.
If you are asking why caulk on the outside doesn't work, here are my
thoughts. Caulk can never have what is referred to as 3 point adhesion.
It is designed to be applied to each of 2 sides but NOT in the middle.
Professionals use bond breaker tape or backer rod (which functions as
a bond breaker) in joints. The cured caulk joint should have a
rectangular profile. I'm sure you've seen the samples at the register
that invite you to pull, twist, tug, etc. Look carefully at the
material shape and application. Caulk is usually rated on its
elongation and its bond properties. I think that your gutter
application would do better if you put bond breaker tape over the joint
and concentrated on a clean and substantial application on each side of
the joint over the top of the tape.
I have been learning how to properly seal travel trailers. Don't use
silicone. Don't use dynaflex 230 . I have been using a gutter sealer bought
at the home depot. It's in the gutter section. It comes out silver. Can be
used in water rather quick, but dries over a couple days. It stays slightly
flexible. I think the small hand tube is also silver. Really this stuff
seems much like plumbers goop, but smells different. Is uv resistant but I
paint a polymer over it. Seems there is always something good to use, and I
end up using something that does not work in the long run.
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