I usually use a Zircon StudSensor. I've had various models. I have
almost always used them on drywall. Useful features are an LED or LCD
bar graph of signal strength, and what they call "deepscan" mode, which
seems to up the transmit power or receive sensitivity a little bit. (I
think these are ultrasonic but I'm not sure.) The fancier models now
have metal and electric-field detection; I've never used one like that
so I don't know how useful they are.
All of the Zircons I've used have a "calibrate" step, where you put it
on the wall and push the button, and then it beeps to let you know it's
ready. Every once in a while you manage to calibrate it right on top of
a stud, which makes it act weird when you move off the stud. Solution:
move it six inches any direction and recalibrate.
If cost is absolutely no object, buy a FLIR camera. When I had the
inspection done on this house, the inspector had one, and I looked over
his shoulder; you could easily see the studs when he pointed it at the
outside walls, and the joists in the ceiling were also discernible. (It
probably helped that it was an 0 F day outside, and the furnace in the
house had been running for about an hour at that point.)
My zircon didn't work well either.
Why can't you go to your blueprints and simply review all the joist
Oh, you mean you bought a house WITHOUT the manual? Invested how much?
and no knowledge of what's inside?
me, too. Couldn't pass up that jibe, though.
I get a dozen or more of the one eighth by three eights round ones.
When you have them on the nails, they will tell you if there is a stud
that is not on pattern, it will find the protector plates, and if a row
of nails is just hugging a stud, that is, just catching the edge, you
can try a test hole or two, and adjust an inch in, so you have more
meat. I use good stud finders, but magnets give you an actual picture.
If Jim posted to sed, why did someone change things to ahr?
I have a zircon from 25 or 30 years ago and it works just fine. It
lights up when I get to one edge of the stud and unlights 1.5 inches
later when I pass the other edge.
I wouldn't assume blueprints are right.
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