I have a 55 year old door chime clock and the board has carbon arcs which is
causing a short. I have seen boards with this problem before and they were
repaired using some type of filler. The filler I have seen has always been
white if this helps. I tried Google to see what is used. Does someone on the
Thank you for your help
Mine has 5 tubes and it is played by motor driven rotating
plunger/hammer. 3 tunes, front, back, side door. My only problem has
been plunger spring sticking. I had it more than 30 years and always
took it when moving.
Cool. I've worked on regular door bells (chimes) with the solenoid and
plunger that hits the chime. In a way are a lot like solenoids in
pinball machines (I fixed them for close to 30 years). Anyway, if you
take apart the sticky unit and clean it well, don't give it _any_
lubrication and it should work for a long time. If the solenoid has an
aluminum sleeve, well they just suck. If it's brass it's a lot better,
and if it's nylon it's better yet.
I haven't seen them but I've heard them, live, going back 40 years,
that play, dum, dum, doom, dum; doom, dum, dum, doom. (I'm not sure
my representation is very good. I'm tone deaf so I can't give you
notes from a scale.) That's at the front door. AT the back door they
just play the first four sounds.
These are real chimes, not electronic sounds. There are between 2 and
4 pitches required.
I think it could get annoying if you have a lot of visitors, that it
has to play 8 notes every time.
I've only been to Westminster, Maryland, so I'm not sure.
Listening to the midi file here at least some of them were that, and
the midi file reminds me that that sequence is 16 tone. No wonder I
found it annoying, and I was just visiting the house.
It seems to me the page wasn't written entriely by a native English
speaker. At least not American English. It says in part:
The permutationen are:
1. g4, f?4, e4, b3
2. e4, g?4, f?4, b3
3. e4, f?4, g?4, e4
4. g4, e4, f?4, b3
5. b3, f?4, g?4, e4
played as three crotchets and a dotted minim. A different sequence of
these permutations is played at each quarter-hour: one set at the
first quarter, two sets at the half, and so forth, as follows:
I've worked on similar units in pinball machines and I *think* I can
picture exactly what you have. After removing all the carbonized areas,
I've used epoxy or bondo, put tape on the back and fill in the void.
I've fixed some that were so bad that after epoxy, I had to drill out
and install the old, or new brass rivets that make contact with the
wiper fingers. Then of course the wires have to be soldered back onto
Never ever ever ever use contact cleaner on it. For some reason it will
cause the carbon arc to form. I've seen it literally 100's of times.
Clean it with light oil on a cloth and leave some oil on it or give it a
light coat of lubriplate (actually almost any light grease will do)
Just stay away from the contact cleaner. If grease on electrical
contacts doesn't sound quite right, well it didn't sound right to me
either 30 years ago when I first saw it. It works great reducing
friction wear and also helps keep the contacts from pitting.
Note: this is only for contacts with wiper fingers, relay type contacts
get filed clean and they never get grease/oil and again never use
contact cleaner. I honestly don't know what contact cleaner is good for?
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