Googling around, it looks like paint manufacturers have attacked problem
posed by op.
I was curious because sand is very abrasive and I could not think of a
plastic that might resist it.
One manufacturer was talking about nano metal technology that helped but
did not offer complete solution.
It has been over 10 years since we did some floors at work so I don't
recall the brand name but the store we buy from has Benjamin Moore and
at least one other brand. . Some floors were done with an oil based
paint, but others were done with a latex based paint. In both cases, it
was a designated floor paint.
IMO. the oil based had a better sheen. They were slightly better to
clean up a spilled or leaked mess. As for wear, they both held up to
heavy foot traffic, fork lift trucks, carts, and a lot of things you'd
never run into at home or in a strictly people use setting.
Color selection was also limited.
| to paint indoor hardwood floors that have
| already been painted in the past.
If it were me I'd use Benj Moore oil base
high gloss Impervo. I don't know of a better
option, but as I said, all of the options are
limited these days.
A further option would be to put something like
Varathane over that after it's cured. (You can
put polyurethane over it to protect from scratching,
but if the color is a cool tone poly will make it
look yellowed. Varathane is clear, non-yellowing.)
There are also European oil base paints that are
very expensive but are claimed to be the quality
that American oil paints used to be. Some of the
Benj Moore stores sell them.
| strip, sand, stain and outdoor polyurethane.
| time consuming but will bring back the beauty of wood
But it won't last. I'd consider that arguably
the worst of all options. Have you ever seen
where people have put beautiful mahogany
or oak trim around their front door or porch?
It's gorgeous for a year or two. Then the
finish attracts mildew. Then it starts to break
down and gray, weathered spots show through.
Then what? The whole thing has to be completely
Also, in this case the floor is in a bathhouse.
Beauty of the wood is not what he's looking for.
And while a bathhouse has a roof over it, the floor
is presumably open to the elements underneath,
as well as being exposed to a lot of water and
sand on the top surface. So in practice it's an
exterior deck. The only abuse it's not getting is
it's really the wrong floor for that place.
sanding it down and then sealing it with linseed
oil might be the best option as then any more
maint would be just to sweep it and put a bit more
| it's really the wrong floor for that place.
| sanding it down and then sealing it with linseed
| oil might be the best option as then any more
| maint would be just to sweep it and put a bit more
| oil on.
Three problems with that, I think:
2) Linseed oil attracts mildew.
3) It would probably be unsanitary to have such
a porous surface covered with water and feet
all day. Linseed oil used to be common for
outdoor steps, but it only protects for so long.
Remember those gray fir steps from years ago?
One knew it was time to replace them when they
broke down into a block of gray, shedding shards. :)
I'm trying to remember what state beaches use,
but I can't picture it now. I think the shower
houses are usually just set slightly off the ground
with a concrete floor. But in my memory I'm
imagining wide planks painted gray. On the
other hand, state facilities can use products not
available to the public, and may very well repaint
when you sweep a wood floor you use a light
brush of linseed each time (used on the sweeper
to get rid of the sand). there should not be
any problem with spinters if there hasn't
already been a problem.
if you're that concerned about sanitary conditions
and cleaning to germ free status then wood slab
flooring is not the right floor.
i can't see anything other than bare cement being
very decent for most places. colored cement for a
more fancy place. seamless flooring would be ok for
some areas if there wasn't furniture being dragged
over it all the time, but so would tile be ok for
such a place. overall, i'd get rid of the wood and
put in concrete. not ever paint it. that's just a
waste of time and money.
You are confusing 2 products. Urea Formadehyde Foam Insulation (UFFI)
is the product that breaks down and releases formaldehyde under
certain conditions - Urethane spray foam insulation is totally
Isocyanates can be a problem with urethanes - generally if properly
mixed and applied the problem is over in less than 2 days - but DO NOT
hang around inside a poorly ventilated building when urethane is being
VERRY carefully!!! That is one problem with a foamed building. You
basically need to cut and drill to install anything - and then refoam
when you are done. My father's last 2 housed that he had built were
Urethane spray foam insulated.
Part of the problem with UFFI was it was used where it should not have
been used. It was approved only for use in wood-framed buildings, but
was installed in double-brick construction and all sorts of other
constructions. There is also a difference between acidic and
non-acidic based foam, with the Acidic foam being the more
typed: > I would be interested in knowing what others think about that last
"Latex" and "enamel" are mutually exclusive as far as I am concerned.
If you want a scratch resistant, long wearing paint about the best you can
do that is easily available and applicable is an oil base poly. I use
Glidden Porch & Floor on my shop floor almost 20 years ago. It is not
pristine but given the years and wear it has received, I'm happy with it.
How about something like Deckover or Deckote? Deckover is a Behr
(Home Despot) product, Deckover is from Consolidated Coatings.
Or even try a roll-on "bed liner" product. Likely available for about
half the price of the deck products.
The big thing is the floor needs to be 100% clean and dry for ANY
coating to stick reliably.
Marine topside paint is pretty good. There are multiple formulations,
some one-part, and some two-part. It is expensive; I bought a quart
this week and it was $49 US. Pettit and Interlux are common brands.
Excellent source for both paint and advice is at
Your paint will last longer if you coat all sides of the boards,
including the bottoms.
On Fri, 10 Apr 2015 10:39:23 -0700 (PDT), email@example.com wrote:
I know you dont want linoleum, but there is a liquid flooring called
It's like a paint (sort of). It's similar to an epoxy. You pour and
spread it, then add the colored flakes, which makes it look very nice.
Then you coat it with more of the clear liquid. The more coats you add,
the thicker the material gets, and thus wont wear as fast.
As far as I know, you can recoat it with the clear coating after it
starts to wear, and probably add more flakes in wear spots. I have never
used it, but I knew someone who installed it in the 80s. It did make a
very durable floor and nice looking too. It's probably one of the best
things you could use, but will likely cost more than paint. But if you
have to paint every few years, this stuff will likely pay for itself in
well if OP was able to remove ALL of the old coatings I wonder if the now cleaned surface could be stained?
My moms basemet floor had many coats of worn paint. I ended up removing what I could, gave up, and used vinyl tile.
incidently all the chemical paint removers made the floor extremely slippery in use
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