more bathtub woes

Being my own "handyman" due to being out of work has both advantages and disadvantages. Apparently, the bathtub is going to be a disadvantage. Read on please....

Issue number one: The overflow plate to the tub was freed as I indicated prior by simply drilling out the screw heads until they were so thin that I was able to easily pry off the overflow plate. Last night, I attempted to remove the existing screws and they both broke off so all I have are threads remaining. Those threads aren't going to come out. Since I never actually fill the tub, and shower only, for now I guess I could just silicone the plate back into position. There is so much corrosion that I'd be afraid of doing even more damage unless someone has a suggestion I'm not thinking of.....

Issue number two: The Liquid Wrench has caused an oil smell in the bathroom that I have been unable to eliminate. I've tried spraying down the area with dawn dishwashing detergent and then rinsing with boiling water, but the smell persists. Any suggestions welcome as to how to eliminate that awful smell would be welcome. Had I know LW would be so potent, I would never have used it. I even kept the can straw in place and just liberally sprayed the screw heads and underneath the overflow plate, which seemed to have a small opening along the bottom.

Thanks in advance. Difficult for me because I also have POTS, so any standing for too long and my heart rate goes bonkers!

Reply to
wAYNE
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You haven't described the tub, is it:

- A cast iron stand-alone clawfoot? - A cast iron with the overflow in the wall? - A fiberglass with the overflow pipe in the wall?

The best answer would be to replace the overflow completely, fairly straightforward for a clawfoot, requires access to the back side of the wall (tough if exterior, managable if interior) for built-in tubs.

If the remaining threads are clean enough, you can use a threaded post on the remaining threads and use a shorter screw from the cover plate.

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I had mentioned that the LW is only useful if it reaches the nuts, and suggested that might not be appropriate in this case.

Time and ventilation are your best option. The volatile compounds will eventually evaporate.

Reply to
Scott Lurndal

Are the screws brass or stainless steel ? I guess they could be plated steel .. ? If they are brass and the fixture that they screw into is brass I'd be tempted to just drill them out and " self tap " a very slightly larger screw into the hole. Not sure about the LW odour - maybe some baking soda down the drain let it sit for a good while and fill the tub with several pails of hot water and drain it .. John T.

Reply to
hubops

Uh oh, didn't realize that would be an issue. If I can't use the existing studs, what about just silicone mounting the cover in place as I mentioned prior? Was thinking of using aquarium silicone as adhesive.

Smell taken care of today. Thoroughly cleaning the tub and area with rubbing alcohol, Clorox, dawn and baking soda finally did the job.

Reply to
wAYNE

Some tubs have integral overflow drains :

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John T.

Reply to
hubops

One or two people have had a similar experience :

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John T.

Reply to
hubops

I pulled the linkage and guts and tossed it, replaced with a nice cover. No stopper but it will drain. I shower only and if needed I block the drain with a flat rubber stopper.

Reply to
Thomas

This is what I am leaning toward, but I took some photos of the existing studs and posted them in the prior thread. Maybe it is yet still possible to utilize them somehow and install the new cover the proper way.

Reply to
wAYNE

I don't see that as being an issue if you use silicone to hold the cover plate on. Silicone sealant is tough and durable. It may not look ideal, but as long as you have a decent bead on it, should work. How to hold the plate in position while it cures is a question. I guess some big heavy object in the tub and then something in between to push on it until it cures.

Reply to
trader_4

I can't be sure but I don't think those screws apply the squeeze force. I think it is the retaining screws on that clamp that sits under the overflow plate.

Again, do you possibly have an access panel on the other side? Because it is true that without that seal you will have a leak. I did and had a good bit of damage downstairs from my tub. Without access you are limited in options and it is very tricky to replace that gasket, which looks a bit old in your photos.

The overflow pipe itself is not one piece, at least in my house. It is just a 90 elbow (with screw fittings of course) that screws on top of the pipe. So if worst came to worst you could buy a new one and change it out. But you would need access to the rear, and two large pipe wrenches.

Check out these photos:

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Reply to
TimR

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