I have an application where I want to install a switch controlled
ceiling light. Unfortunately, I am unable to run a wire from the
switch box to the light junction box. What I am looking for is a
wireless switch that can control a relay inside a junction box. Does
anyone have an idea who makes this. Using google, I found:
1) One option where an existing switch (which controls a ceiling
light) is replaced by a special switch. A second wireless switch can
then be placed anywhere else. I don't have an existing switch.
2) A wireless switch that controls a receiver which is plugged into an
outlet. Close but I want a switch controlling an receivers designed to
fit into an standard junction box.
Any ideas (other than ripping open walls and ceilings)?
On Sep 15, 8:43 pm, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Dont rip anything open!
I do this all the time with Leviton X10 switches, the signal is
actually transmitted over the power line (not RF), in the ceiling Jbox
use this relay module to switch the load:
Or if you want it to be dimmable this module:
Then for your switch (which can be mounted anywhere in the house, not
even the same room) mount this in your wallswitch Jbox:
For controlling a single light on/off/brt/dim:
For controlling multiple relay or dimmer modules:
Note the switch in the wall does not actually switch the load, it is
merely an electronic transmitter (draws only 2 watts), the module in
the ceiling Jbox will be actually switching the load and responding to
the commands you sent from the wall controller. You assign an X10
address to the module in the ceiling, then assign the same X10 address
to whatever switch/buttons that you want to have controlling that
module. It's pretty simple, requires no electrician and no physical
wiring between the light and the switch, its "virtual wiring" in
computer-speak. Handy if you want to quickly add a switch to your
master bedroom that can flip the porch lights on/off, no need to run
The manuals for all of the above are available on these pages, it is
very easy to set up and the technology has been around since 1978 (I
got my first ones in 1984).
I have used literally dozens of X10 switches and other devices around
several buildings including my home, and wanted to add the warnings that
false triggering can and will occur causing lights / appliances to suddenly
come on or shut off with no intentional user initiation / actions. This is
due to noise on the AC line causing the receiver to mistakenly "recognize" a
noise burst as if it were a true transmitter sequence.
Also, I should warn that typical home and business wiring with 2 separate
110 volt feeds being supplied from a center-tapped 220 volt line transformer
have enough isolation from one side to the other that many installed X10
receivers fail to hear / trigger correctly if the transmitter happens to be
on the opposite leg.
I have cases here in my home where outlets on two ends of the same room are
fed from opposite branches, and thus the X10 transmitter at one end of the
room cannot trigger the receiver / fixture plugged in 12 feet away. Yes, I
am very aware of methods to overcome this problem as well as the prior
problem I stated, but they add a lot of complexity and cost.
Bottom line is that X10 is not at all reliable, and the much newer "Insteon"
system which provides feedback between transmitter and receiver is way
better, albeit more expensive.
I totally agree. I tried X10 on a client's garage light that he wanted
to control from the house. It was around 80' from the house to the
garage. The x10 never worked reliably. I replaced it with Insteon and
it's worked perfectly now for 2 months.
Yes, I agree the old X10 can be quirky, I switched from X10 to Insteon
and currently have 55 Insteon devices in my basement network with 100%
reliability (I have an elaborate home theater with a lot of accent
lighting). Insteon has a Jbox module but they are bigger so I was not
sure if he could fit it inside the ceiling box, so I recommended X10
for a "beginner" since it appears that the load and wallswitch will
probably be on the same branch circuit anyway so it should work. I
also recommended the Leviton DHC because it has a stronger signal and
better noise rejection than the cheaper X10 stuff like HomePro, they
also use beefier triacs in the dimmers. If he were looking to go long
distances across the split phase then I would certainly suggest going
So to the OP, you can look up the Insteon products on the same site
The one switch I tried like that was a piece of crap; so I can only wish you
good luck in finding a better one. BUT...
The first thing you want to do is identify where the feed is from. Just
maybe you can intercept it and put a switch in. Not likely, but worth
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