I need electricity for a ceiling fan. In my attic, I found an existing wire that powers a light switch. I want to run a new wire from the existing wire to the ceiling fan. How do I tap into the existing wire?
that powers a light switch. I want to run a new wire from the existing wire to the ceiling fan. How do I tap into the existing wire? With an accessible junction box. Best bet is likely to run new wire from the light switch. (unswitched)
The power may be running to the light, and the wire going to the switch might only be a loop used to break the circuit to the light. If that's the case then you can't tap into it there.
that powers a light switch. I want to run a new wire from the existing wire to the ceiling fan. How do I tap into the existing wire?
Open the box where that switch is and see if there is only one cable coming in with the black and white (maybe with black tape on it) going to the switch, you can't use that one. You could get what you want from a ceiling box over a light most of the time but they are usually packed with wires. There may not be room for another. If you see a ceiling box with 2 or 3 cables, that may be a candidate but if it only has one, not so much, unless you only want the fan on when that light is on.
So tap into the light then. It's not rocket science either way. The point is, it HAS to be done at a box. You can't "vampire" it - and the box needs to be accessible.
Depends if it line switched or drop switched. Drop switched won't work
that powers a light switch. I want to run a new wire from the existing wire to the ceiling fan. How do I tap into the existing wire?
You need to read the electrical code in your jurisdiction, wherever that is. Tapping into a wire is trivial. Making it pass inspection may take more knowledge than you currently possess. And the thing that trips you up will seem trivial or even stupid.
A lot depends on your definition of "ceiling fan".
My neighbor came home with a ceiling fan...the bladed decapitation type. I read the instructions and suggested he take it back.
According to the instructions, you can't install the fan into an existing box in the ceiling. You need a box approved for ceiling fan use. Near as I could tell, the approved box differed in three areas. It had a sticker that said, "approved for ceiling fan use". And a price sticker with a substantially higher price. And it required opening the ceiling and patching it back up.
He wasn't gonna get a permit or have it inspected. I didn't want to be party to denial of a fire insurance claim.
This stuff is easy and you can always get away with it...until you get caught with your house on fire.
Funny story... About 50 years ago, there was some problem with the window air conditioner. It got unplugged. Dad had difficulty getting the plug back into the wall, but made it happen. Next day, I was riding my bike home from school. "Cool, look at all the fire trucks!" Imagine how my mood changed when I discovered it was MY house. Point being, simple stuff can cause BIG problems.
And that wasn't the last time I got burned out of my house. But that's a funny story for a different day.
wire that powers a light switch. I want to run a new wire from the existing wire to the ceiling fan. How do I tap into the existing wire?
An electrician would use a pair of wire cutters! But since you dont know that, you only need to use a telephone. Use it to call that electrician.
Agree, that's the essence of it. If he's found a cable that is not switched, ie live all the time, in the attic, he would typically need two new boxes. You cut the cable and put one box on each end, with a new piece between them to re-connect the existing circuit. You usually can't use just one because their isn't enough existing cable there to make it work with one box.
The cable for fan power can then come off either box. For most applications, I'd then just use one of the remote control packages for the fan. That way you don't need to run cable into the wall, install switch, etc. Just run power in the attic over to the ceiling fan. Use the remote to control it. They also have a wall mount holder to keep the remote in if desired.
How can plugging an an AC that got unplugged start a fire?
I'd hope that there's more of a difference between a standard ceiling box and a fan support box than just a sticker, price, and necessity to open the ceiling
Ther IS. The ceiling fan box is designed to support the weight of the swinging ceiling fan and transfer the weight to the ceiling joists.
Sure there is. It has to be able to take the weight of the fan and the vibration without falling out of the ceiling. It only makes sense to make sure the thing can take a beating.
We hear the "insurance" nonsense here all the time but it's BS. The worrywarts couldn't take a piss without their master's permission.
I was thinking the same thing. By now you'd think there would be case after case cited here by these folks where an insurance company denied a claim because someone did some work incorrectly themselves. It might be out there, but I have yet to see it.
However, there's no need to open the ceiling, there are ceiling fan box/hanger kits that will go right in place of the old ceiling box, from below, with only a little difficulty.
Even if you end up making a bit of a mess of the install a rosette is cheap and easy, and the simpler ones don't look too bad. (had to use one at my last place due to a PO's butchery of a strip fluorescent install, it looked great after caulking and painting.)
nate
The immediate difference is a fan box uses #10 screws not #8s and the screws are not in ears bent in from the side of the box. They usually go all the way to the top of the box and thread in there. It will also have a bit stronger mounting method although they do make them that fit through the hole and span 2 framing members..
A regular box is normally just held in place by a couple of roofing nails or sheetrock screws. If the box comes loose, the fan falls and might decapitate someone. That someone could be YOU!
On Friday 11 January 2013 22:15 snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote in alt.home.repair:
Do we even know where the OP lives (ie which electrical regulations are in effect)?
I agree that screw terminals, regulation or no regulation, need to be accessible - screws can loosen over time.
However, local regulations *may* permit:
1)2) Crimps - done with a correct ratchet tool and not the piece of tin from some car radio shop. Granted, not much help with a 3 way tap.
3) Soldered joints, insulated in heatshrink and boxed.The British IET 17th Edition regulations permit all the above. I have no idea about the US NEC, or canadian regs.
Soldered joints are an art though - the conductors should be mechanically bound prior to soldering - eg ferrule or overlapped and a thin copper wire used to lash them. It's not good enough to just blob them together.
Regarding where to tap:
I can't imagine the OP's jurisdiction has any more different ways of wiring lighting than the UK. So...
Switch: May have a permanant live/hot. But no neutral.
Light fitting: May be used as a junction box so may have live/hot. neutral and switched live/hot in which case it is possible.
Or it may just have switched live and neutral and the junction box with live and neutral is somewhere else.
So the OP needs to possibly find the main feeder cable and joint into that?
Does the fan require a ground/earth and is there one present in the lighting circuit?
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Also - do local regulations permit fans running from lighting circuits? How many amps does the fan take? It's probably OK, but the question needs asking.
ir:
Yes, you have a point. I should have qualified my answer with the fact that it applies to most of the USA. Also many places require a permit to do that work, though most are done without one, required or not.
Until very recently ALL of the above were forbifdden by american and canadian code. In some areas the "vampire" clips formerly allowed in mobile homes are now also allowed in permanent residential installations - although I would NEVER use them - even in a trailer.
Or may have both
Unlike UK "ring circuits" there is no "feeder" per se. All circuits have "home runs" to the service panel, where they are protected by a breaker (or in some cases , still) a fuse.
In all recent (last 40 years or so) north american installations the ground is there and required.
The fan draws less than most lights - and in all North American codes lighting and ancilliary loads can be shared on the same circuit.
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