liquid tight connector to pvc conduit

Jul 28, 2020 25 Replies

I want to connect liquid tight tubing to PVC conduit. Searching online I see a lot of Poly tubing connectors w/compression on one end and with a threaded end for a box, but I want to go to a straight piece of conduit. So what I want is a Poly to PVC conduit coupler.



Don't know if I am looking in the right place or not. Searched the web, big Orange and big Green, but no success.



Any help is appreciated. Thanks


My first thought was a compression coupling. That might not quite do it, though. The liquidtite wouldn't have the little metal fitting to make the ends smooth.

Looking at this video:

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5 min & 40 secs the presenter picks one up and I had to turn the volume up really loud to try and figure out what he was saying. Sounds like 'Carflex' connector. After watching the video a couple of times I believe this is actually 2 pieces. Compression to male thread and female thread to PVC conduit ? Did I get it right ?

What about using the official liquidtite fitting plus a female adapter. This is most likely too big but you'll get the idea.

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So you want something like this for conduit.

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Legally you need a female adapter on the RNC and a male Carflex adapter. I won't tell you that a regular RNC coupling glued onto Carflex will last forever but if you use primer ... Well you know. It is a listing issue. Carlon does list using glued fittings on Smurf Tube (ENT) but not Carflex. OTOH plumbers do it all the time with Spaflex (white Carflex.)

So is the Carfex in black a different product than the gray liquidtight (poly) that you see in HD ? This stuff also seems kind of expensive per foot ? Should I try to make the whole run w/straight and preformed elbows ?

Is any of it suitable for direct burial ? Thanks

Carflex, 1/2",3/4", and 1" are listed for direct burial.

Nonconductive and noncorrosive • Lightweight for easy handling, transportation, and installation • Crush, abrasion, and strain resistant • Provides superior wire protection • Smooth interior ideal for pulling cable • No jagged edges • Maintains internal I.D. even in tight radius bends • Type LFNC-B • Resistant to oil, acid, ozone, and alkaline • UL Listed for use as indicated in Article 356 of the 2002 NEC; and Section 12-1300 of the 2002 Canadian Electrical Code, Part 1. • UL Listed for outdoor use • UL Listed for sunlight resistant • Trade sizes 1/2", 3/4", and 1" are UL Listed for direct bury

Fretwell can tell you about requirements for expansion fittings if any are needed.

HD site shows 1-1/4 Liquid-Tight as direct burial ? Should I trust the specs from the site ?

Liquid Tite to me is the metallic stuff with some sort of plastic for a covering. It's listed for direct burial. This stuff:

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Isn't it expensive compared to the PVC versions?

I saw several U-Tubes on bending PVC conduit. Has anyone ever tried or had any luck w/bending ? That would be way cheaper !

I'm sure one could manage but why not just buy the bend(s) you need?

You haven't said quite what you want to do. Do you want to run a few feet underground? UF wire lets you do that without conduit. It is supposed to be buried two feet deep though. That's about the top of a man's knee caps. Conduit at the ends of the run is supposed to reach eighteen inches into the dirt.

356.10 Uses Permitted. LFNC shall be permitted to be used in exposed or concealed locations for the following purposes: Informational Note: Extreme cold can cause some types of nonmetallic conduits to become brittle and therefore more susceptible to damage from physical contact. (1) Where flexibility is required for installation, operation, or maintenance. (2) Where protection of the contained conductors is required from vapors, liquids, or solids. (3) For outdoor locations where listed and marked as suitable for the purpose. (4) For direct burial where listed and marked for the purpose. (5) Type LFNC shall be permitted to be installed in lengths longer than 1.8 m (6 ft) where secured in accordance with 356.30 (6) Type LFNC-B as a listed manufactured prewired assembly, metric designator 16 through 27 (trade size 1¨M2 through 1) conduit. (7) For encasement in concrete where listed for direct burial and installed in compliance with 356.42. 356.12 Uses Not Permitted. LFNC shall not be used as follows: (1) Where subject to physical damage (2) Where any combination of ambient and conductor temperatures is in excess of that for which it is listed (3) In lengths longer than 1.8 m (6 ft), except as permitted by 356.10(5) or where a longer length is approved as essential for a required degree of flexibility (4) In any hazardous (classified) location, except as permitted by other articles in this Code

Two different things with similar uses. You really see more Carflex (nonmetalic) in general use.

All the time

It is best done if you have a mandrel so it maintains its shape. An EMT bender works well but you can wrap it around anything round. They make several types of heater but a $10 Harbor Fright heat gun works if you are careful and only get it hot enough to bend without collapsing. Old school is sticking it in the tail pipe of the truck. This stuff can get like overdone spaghetti and you can turn it into trash pretty easy. If you are bending near the end, stick a cold coupling over the end so it doesn't collapse or get out of round. Then you can still use it.

I can buy fewer pieces and have fewer breaks underground ? Sounds like a better plan ?

I don't see a heat-gun on Harbor site for $10, I do see 1 for $15 by Warrior ? Menards has a gun for $20 by WEN that comes with a case. Menards and HD also carry 3/4" AFC metallic cable w/O.D. of 1" that could be shoved down the middle to help the 1-1/4" PVC hold its shape during bending ? In one of the U-Tube videos on PVC-bending the author stated that one of the best features to look for in heat-gun is the ability to stand-up on its back, leaving you both hands to hold your work. (Hard to tell if the WEN or Warrior will do that from the pics on-line)

Project:

40 years ago, when our Antenna tower was erected, the contractor took a short-cut, at about 9' AGL he strung the wires straight across to the the house from the antenna tower. The antenna tower is about 10' feet from the house, and the sidewalk for the side entrance to the house (the one everyone uses) runs underneath it.

I want to take the eyesore down and run the wires directly to the ground and bury them and run them to a discreet location for entrance to the house. So right now, 3 wires: 14-2 to power the dusk-to-dawn security light, Coax for the antenna, and multi-pair for the rotor. I can direct-bury the 14-2, but the other two I don't want to in case I need to replace them and/or add another.

They usually have a coupon that gets you that gun for around $10 in a "everything has to go" sale.

If you are running a conduit for low voltage, spend the extra money and put in at least 3/4" and 1" is better if you are pulling the connectors too. Normal low voltage wire is a regular PVC jacket that doesn't have the slick cover like THHN and it doesn't pull all that easy. Use plenty of lube. (Yellow 77 or something similar, not dish soap or WD40)

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