I'm bringing a 1/0 Al SER cable into a short 2" Schedule 80 PVC (RNC)
sleeve to a panelboard. What's the proper way to terminate the free
end of the sleeve? I could just carefully ream the end of the PVC
conduit, or I could glue on a male adapter and use a bushing. Or is
there something like a clamp connector for RNC?
Hmmm. Tough question. Technically there should be a clamp connector on the
end of the conduit. However if it is metal it would need to be grounded. I
don't know of any 2" non-metallic cable clamp connectors, but maybe there
are some out there. Try the Carlon web site. A male adapter with a bushing
might be acceptable to the inspector. Perhaps a strap on the cable within
close proximity to the conduit end might also be acceptable.
If you polished a soft edge on the end of the pipe it would take a
real prick to cite you but legally you *might* need a bushing. When
you are using short pieces of condiuit for physical protections some
of the rules become ambiguous. Clamp the SE to the wall where it comes
out of the pipe and pack the end of the pipe with duct seal to keep
the critters/rain out.
Yes, that should do the trick:
1) Deburr the PVC at both ends - eg: curved file, or sandpaper
around a chunk of dowel. (this may be excessively fussy, but
it's good workmanship anyway)
2) Clamp the SER close to the conduit, but form the wire
so that it's held away from the edges of the conduit - eg:
plastic conduit clamps against the wall with a bit
of slack going into the pipe. Allows for thermal
expansion/contraction and minor pulls and tugs. If the
wire is in contact with the edge, even with plastic, vibration
and expansion/contraction movement _may_ cut the insulation,
even with (tho less than with metal) with plastic.
3) DUX seal the ends of the conduit. You're going to need
this in any event.
With metal conduit, you need rubber boots on it, tho, if
enclosed in a box, the DUX may be sufficient.
Having a piece of conduit going thru a wall and ending in a box
without sealing the conduit is a recipe for a fire: moist air
flow + live connections -> corrosion -> heat -> poof.
House down the street burned down because of an unsealed
service conduit entering the back of the panel.
The inside end of your conduit is open, and isn't much of a
problem that way, but the outside end is in the disconnect
Age and Treachery will Triumph over Youth and Skill
When working with plumbing pipe (plastic or copper) I usually just use
a small blade; lately I've found that the manual can opener attachment
on my multi-tool works well.
That's right, I'm coming into the bottom of the disconnect after going
through an LB conduit body. Let me make sure that I have the
connection at the disconnect right: I'm going to use a male adapter, a
metal locknut, and a plastic bushing. Carlon make a "flat
washer/o-ring" for their male adapter and suggests that they be used
outside a box for a watertight connection with a male adapter, so I'm
going to track down one of those. Does that connection sound OK?
Unless you can ask the inspector first, I'd use a male adapter with a
threaded bushing, then strap the cable close to the conduit. I prefer to
file the ends of the PVC round and smooth, like gfretwell describes, as it
looks better and clamps tight against a flat surface, but I have had knit
pickin inspectors reject it
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