LED flashlight report for home repair

I'm not sure what the advantage is of those other than the higher voltage t han NiMH, but in my whole life I have come across two devices that didn't w ork well on a NiMH but would on an alkaline - ironically one was a Nikon di gital camera that was specifically designed to work on NiMH. (Nikon custom er service was completely uninterested, BTW.) The other was I want to say an Amprobe? NCVD which smoked itself after inserting a NiMH. (they have lo wer voltage but also lower internal resistance, so they have been known to smoke poorly designed devices, such as direct-drive LED lights. The "tell" for direct drive will be that they typically have three alkaline cells.) Its Sperry branded replacement works fine however.

yes they are, I just bought some the other day for the little mini flashlig ht that lives in the glovebox of my car (e.g. last resort flashlight) I th ink they are also available in 9V as I looked it up out of curiosity prompt ed by the smoke detector thread.

nate

I tried NiMH in my computer speakers, but they aren't loud enough for me to hear well. The powergenix make the speakers a bit louder.

A year or so ago, I read testing web site. They found Energizer Lithium Advanced to be better than ultimate.

Two dollars a cell hurts, but it may be worth it when you really need the device. Did you put a non conductive spacer under the bulb to keep from accidental turn on? Or store the batteries out of the unit.

I've got a couple lights at home stored with batteries, but most are separately.

Wish your and my programs would work together. Your text is one line, about five times wider than my screen.

Doesn't speak well for that company, their product doesn't work and they doesn't care.

. Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus

I've used wall-powered units so I don't have to fool with batteries. I switched from a JVC boombox to Cyber Acoustics speakers to save space. I thought I'd also save power, but it turns out they use more watts, both off and on, than the boom box. Power consumption is something retailers don't seem to list, but in the long run it can matter more than price.

Nate said NiMH wouldn't run a certain camera. I bought my first NiMH cells with my first digital camera. Before that, I read an online article by a photographer who tested how many shots he got from a charge with various brands. Charged one time, a set of cells could give far different results from the same set charged another time. I think sometimes, the electrolyte may not be distributed well. A charger that shuts off according to dV/dT can be fooled, and a battery of 4 cells is only as good as its weakest cell.

I couldn't predict how long a set of NiMH would last in that camera. Photographers seemed to prefer NiMH because they could take a bigger charge, but NiCd might have worked more reliably.

I used to test AA cells in a battery holder with two 1-ohm resistors in series; it could be used as a 2-ohm or a 1-ohm load. I could connect a battery-powered analog clock in parallel to keep track of elapsed time, and a multimeter to see voltage.

It appeared that memory effect in a NiCd was really a reduction in voltage (increase in internal resistance) after a certain amount of discharge. Discharging and recharging could fix it.

NiMH would often show "substandard" voltage under load. I liked to carry a pocket light with 2 AA cells and 1-amp bulb. If I could get

I've found Eneloops to be wonderfully low in internal resistance... something like 1.3 V at 1 amp through most of their run time. My Fenix headlamp was supposed to produce 2158 candella on high. I found 3600. I checked on medium, and the intensity was as advertised. I checked the current draw on high. As I recall, it was 69% too high. Apparently my Eneloop was capable of feeding the power supply a lot more power than whatever cell Fenix engineers had used in their test.

Third-generation Eneloops are supposed to hold 70% of their charge after

Back around 1998, I bought 4 each of 2 brands of AA NiMH. They were still going strong after 10 years of regular use. In each case, retirement was fatal. If I let a cell sit a year or so, it would probably never be the same: more self-discharge, less capacity, and higher internal resistance.

According to Enloop, the same purity of materials that makes self-discharge low and current capability high, is supposed to reduce corrosion. That suggests a long service life, but I don't remember seeing data to support it.

The li-ion batteries in my two cameras have held up a lot longer than I expected. I suppose one reason is that I don't charge them until I start to use one and I get a warning. If I don't leave them fully charged, I guess they don't deteriorate as fast. The day a camera doesn't power up, I'd have to locate and pay for a new battery. Then I might find out the problem was the charger. Instead, I expect to throw the camera away if the battery doesn't work. AA cells seem more practical to me.

If I needed the most lumens from the smallest possible headlamp, it seems li-ion would be the solution. I'd be tempted to make a compromise and use multiple AA's instead of the smallest light possible.