I've got stuff from deals extreme, china. The free shipping has been a
problem sometimes requiring signature, and takes a week or two.
I always look for a location on web sites. Some don't give that out. It
should be under contact info, but often not, or listed in about company.
Similar to this, free at Harbor Freight with coupon
and any purchase. The HF one comes with three carbon
zinc AAA cells. I've seen similar to this in auto
parts stores for five or six bucks.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
I bought one on impulse about 5 years ago. I soon regretted it. It
still has the original batteries because I've hardly used it.
The color rendition is poor. An unregulated LED light like that uses up
most of your battery energy pretty quickly. After that, it's pretty
dim, for most of the hours of battery life. I believe you need a #0
Phillips to change them.
With a first-rate headlamp, I know how much light I'll get when I press
the switch, and I can change batteries with one hand in the dark. I
suppose I average an hour a day, and that makes the hourly cost of
depreciating and charging Eneloops very small.
Not wanting to feel like a fool for buying it, I've kept it on the side
of the refrigerator, by the doorway between the kitchen and the dining
room. That way it will be handy if I ever find a use for it.
It alternates between the end light and the side light. To me, that
makes it a novelty light. It has no regulator, it's not very bright,
and the color rendition is poor. My Fuel headlamp had the same four
drawbacks. Buying it was a worse blunder because it cost more.
When I bought the light in question, my favorite light was a 26-LED work
light that stands about 15" tall. It's not magnetic but can be stood,
propped, laid down, or hand held. Crummy LED lights use bluish LEDs.
Better ones have LEDs with yellow phosphor added, for a whiter light.
The work light has even better color rendition.
The problem with the work light is that the AA NiMH cells are soldered
in. They've held up better than I predicted, but after 10 years or
longer, self-discharge is becoming a problem. One more to-do for my
Maybe I shouldn't bother replacing the batteries. The handiness of a
good headlight has put that work light into retirement.
CY: I have a couple on my fridge, also. The 27
might be useful for working on some thing at
CY: I figure it has either three to get me down the
hall, or 27 for when I'm working.
It has no regulator, it's not very bright,
CY: The cheap LED, and what I call "blue fog"
My Fuel headlamp had the same four
CY: Glad you foudn some thing that worked.
CY: A friend of mine gave me an under the hood
work light, probably much like yours. I took
out the charging circuit, and ran it off three
AA cell battery pack. Put in alkalines, and
gave the light back. He was very pleased.
CY: Nice to have a spare. Though I do like my strap on
head lamps. One friend who I greatly respect had a
headlamp that slid around all the time. He went back
to D or C cell "stick" lights.
Will you fix mine? :)
When it was new, I took it apart and tried to figure out a way to fix it
to use standard AAs. Swapping batteries would mean I could use it
indefinitely without a charging break. If a NiMH cell goes bad, throw
Also, it seems to charge them by supplying a certain current to all
three, and you guess when they're charged. An automatic charger with a
circuit for each cell would be faster and kinder to the batteries.
Sure, we can discuss it. I suspect the shipping
from you, to me, and back again will kill the
adventure. Having loose cells in a snap in
battery holder does have a LOT of advantages.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
I took the work light apart again. The battery is a plastic-wrapped
bundle of 3 double A's by Unitech, kind of like a cellphone battery. It
would be hard to get a different arrangement jammed into the space.
Taking it apart is miserable. It takes a lot of force to move the two
rubber bumpers of place, and they hold everything together. There's a
little screw in a well. I got it out but not back in. I thought it was
a tiny crosshead screw. Then I saw it has 3 slots! Why would they do
something like that!
I used to leave it charging until it felt a little warm. Last night I
left it charging while open so I could feel the cells directly. They
never got warm. The heat was coming from a sink. Maybe the light is
designed to protect the cells from overcharging.
Much as I love the color rendition of that light, maybe I'll throw it
away if the battery fails. A headlamp with great color rendition would
fill the bill. It makes things pretty and can help me spot what I'm
looking for. Cree publishes CRI data for their bulbs, but headlamp
manufacturers may not specify color. Before I bought my HL-21, I
emailed Fenix asking the bulb color. They didn't know. I think it has
a CRI of 80. If Fenix had been willing to sacrifice a few lumens, they
could have used a bulb with a CRI of 90. I would have preferred that.
Worked, ok, here. I gave it back to the original
owner, with instructions to put in alkaline batts
when the light gets dim. I think they are about
thirty bucks at the store. The batt holder and
a couple cells might be worth the investment.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
On Tuesday, September 30, 2014 4:47:03 PM UTC-4, J Burns wrote:
If you like CRI, look for a light with a Nichia 219 emitter.
I actually just received two days ago a new light that I had modified with
a 219 because I wanted something awesome. It's in my pocket now. (Sunwaym
an V11R modified by a guy who advertises on CPF if you care. the reason fo
r that particular light is I love the magnetic control ring UI combined wit
h the tailcap on/off switch...)
I'd found myself using my old EDC pocket light enough that I figured I coul
d justify a little "extravagance" and getting exactly what I wanted. If th
is lasts me, say, as long as a car, it'll have been worth it.
I had modified with a 219 because I wanted something
awesome. It's in my pocket now. (Sunwayman V11R
modified by a guy who advertises on CPF if you care.
the reason for that particular light is I love the
magnetic control ring UI combined with the tailcap
enough that I figured I could justify a little
"extravagance" and getting exactly what I wanted.
If this lasts me, say, as long as a car, it'll
have been worth it.
There is a lot to be said for a EDC light that
fits your needs. My Dad's was a mini mag with LED
Nite Ize module in a belt carry nylon holster.
Other folks I know, like the Innova, or some
Mine was Mini Mag with Teralux module. I looked
under my truck one day, and left it behind.
It was about three hours drive away, and I didn't
think it would be there when I returned (Walmart
parking lot). The new Teralux 5-EX I got over
heated and went dark. I was able to exchange
it and get a new one. Draws 1.4 watts, and puts
out good light.
That's a reason I'm sold on headlamps. If I go to look at something,
it's on my head. If I'm carrying it, it's around my neck or in my
pocket, where the friction of the crumpled strap seems to keep it from
If I put a light down, it's easier to spot if it's bright pink, yellow,
or green. I'm disappointed that the HL50 comes only in black. To me,
the fine untreated aluminum threads are one reason not to buy one. The
color is another.
How do I find the CPF ad? (I'd probably be too cheap to buy one.)
I thought my HL21 had a CRI of 80. It's 70. I remembered it was better
than a cool-white fluorescent light, which is 62. I remember my delight
in the 1970s when I discovered cool white deluxe: less lumens, but a CRI
The HL22 and the HL50 seem to have a CRI of 75. I was about to order an
HL50 because of its better color and broader beam. Then a reviewer
pointed out that it uses fine-pitch aluminum threads that aren't
anodized. They get stuck, can get cross-threaded, and take a lot of
turns to unscrew.
I want to be able to change batteries one-handed in the dark! I wonder
why Fenix didn't use coarse, anodized threads, like other Fenix lights
and the Sunwayman V11R.
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