When you have an actual credible cite that describes this alleged system, post it. Until then, all you are doing is making crap up on the fly. Like claiming that all cars have more than one wire to the battery positive terminal. Or that cars use the resistance of the large gage cable to measure current. You just pulled that one from your ass, it's rather unlikely for some obvious reasons. But hey, you claim that's how it's done, provide some references.......
Maybe they do that now. But that doesn't help me charging my battery at night with a seperate power supply. I'll just leave it at 13.8V, I don't need a fast charge, I just need it to remain charged as it's full when I get home. No matter what the load, if the terminals of the battery are kept at 13.8V, it should remain full.
I can believe him, I've observed my car's alternator change from 14.4V to 13.8V after it's been running for a bit, so it must know the battery is full.
I've never seen one that doesn't. Usually I see one for the alternator, one for the starter, and one for everything else. Why would you have only one? These are high currents, best to connect things directly.
I do hate it when people say "for obvious reasons" - they are never obvious to anyone else.
That is precisely how you measure current, by a voltage drop across a known resistance. And they certainly don't want to add more resistance to something trying to carry 100s of amps. I guess they could also use an amp clamp, but that would cost more.
I've tried it with an automatic charger. If the load is enough that the battery won't change within a certain time, the charger stops and indicates an error.
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That was my original question - on an old car, there is no way for the regulator to tell the difference between the battery still charging at 10 amps and the headlamps being switched on.
Modern batteries are more resilient actually.
Wouldn't have to if they just charged at 13.8V, but I assume they're trying to do a fast charge first.
No, if you charge a battery with no load, the charger will sit at 14.4V (provided it can give enough current to do that) until the battery drew little current, then it would back off to 13.8V.
But with a load, the charger thinks the battery is still charging, when in fact it's the load taking that current. So it will stay at 14.4V forever and f*ck the battery.
I don't have anything deliberately loading it.
Too much hassle. Anyway if I was going to do that, which I used to, I wouldn't even need a charger as the battery would never go flat.
I know it's the alarm, as it still does it with every damn fuse pulled out. The alarm is hidden away and difficult to disconnect, to stop thieves doing so.
I've owned about 15 vehicles, and they've all had two or three, I guess they design them differently in different countries.
How sad do you have to be to collect so many quotes from somebody?
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You've already posted all that s**te. Repeating yourself is a sign of illness.
No it doesn't. It keeps the voltage at the correct level for charging, which is 14.4V for fast charge and 13.8V for trickle charge. It senses a drop in current to tell when the battery is full.
Mine is 2002, and French, so subtract a few years. Something changes the regulator from 14.4V to 13.8V when it knows the battery is full. here has to be a sensor outside the alternator and regulator so it knows the battery is full. Because if I had the lights on, it would see that as a the same as the battery still charging
They probably either just charged at 13.8V (which is why older cars got flat batteries, they never did a fast boost charge after starting), or they charged at 14.4V and assumed a battery wouldn't mind that as your car ain't running 24/7, or did a compromise and charged at about 14V. But stick a battery on 14.4V on your bench forever and it will burn out in a few months.
Some gutless drug crazed drunken diseased f****it that’s actually stupid enough to believe that that fool Raygun actually won the cold war, desperately cowering behind trader_4 snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net spewed the s*it you’d expect from a desperately cowering drunken drug crazed diseased f****it that’s actually stupid enough to believe that that fool Raygun won the cold war.
Yep, you should be working out where that massive fault is and fixing it. Even using one of those power banks to start the car with the car battery flat isnt much of a solution because lead acid batterys hate being flat and you will be going thru battery too fast with the battery flattened every night.
One crude approach would be to get one of those battery disconnectors used in RVs and disconnect the battery every night.
Remains to be seen if that will f*ck the battery.
A battery disonnector would world much better and is easier to use too.
So would a battery disconnector and is easier to use.
Yours isnt that old.
And that’s one reason why old cars only used at night could end up with not charging the battery enough.
That’s only partly true. It is more accurate to say that they don’t boil off the water as much when overcharged because of the different metal additions to the lead used in the plates.
Not only try but clearly do that for that reason and you have in fact observed that yours does that.
Doesn’t need to with that once because it doesn’t last long enough to matter.
Doesn’t need to know that.
The battery cant do that.
Proper lithium cell chargers don’t do that.
Parallel circuits, so what?
No it isn't.
Yes, no argument there. You mean like this;
With alternators, voltage is key.
You need to get with the times. Generators went out with button up boots.
Battery chargers do it automatically - if they are decent. Alternators too do it automatically.
For most of my time in the field, in fact. From about 1966 the switch to alternators was well under way.
Looks like it's pretty easy - depending on the dope. ;-)
Nope, the separate wires go to different bits of the car like the starter, the alternator and the rest of the electrical system.
So its possible to work out what current the battery is taking.
Yes it is. He has said more than once that the voltage just after starting the engine is different to what it is when the battery is fully charged.
That was commenting on that fool Wanker_4's stupid claim that nothing has changed in 100 years with car electrical systems. Of course it has.
What I said, do try to keep up.
Ahem, that is a *Rod thing*, not an Aussie thing. Literacy levels and all that. ;-)
That's telling you your battery is knackered. Try a high rate discharge test on it. You will see it fall over very quickly.
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