I'm getting ready to buy a range (finally!) for my "new" house.
The previous owner used a gas stove, but I want electric. However,
there's no 220V outlet where I need there to be one. I'm just
wondering if this is a major thing, to have one installed.
I'll have to call an electrician, and I want to know, is this normally
something that takes an hour or four hours? Do they have to make holes
in walls and pull wires all over the place, or is it simpler than that?
I do have one 220V outlet in the house where the dryer is, and since
the laundry room is on the other side of the kitchen, it's not that far
from where I need the new 220V outlet. If that makes a difference. . .
Thanks for your help!
You'll need a NEW circuit run from where you connect the stove to your
power panel (this assumes that you have adequate electric service to add
the stove to the existing panel). How difficult this is depends on the
construction of the home. "Fishing" a wire down the wall, across the
attic and down to the power panel can be a one hour job if you have good
attic access, a couple of hour job if you have insulation and 'fire
breaks' in the walls, or an all-day job if you have to go out through an
exterior wall and underground / or / around the house with conduit.
Because I like the smooth tops you can get with electric stoves. I am
a lousy cook and often things boil over and then I have to deal with
cleaning burners. I'd much rather just have to wipe it down.
Plus, recently my house almost blew up because the pilot light on my
heater went out while I was at work. So I'm a little wary of gas
appliances now. If I don't HAVE to use gas, I'm not going to. Call me
a coward. I don't mind. . .
- Nehmo -
A standing pilot should have been attached to a saftey valve, sometimes
a BASO valve. If the pilot went out, gas shouldn't have been supplied to
the burner. I realize sometimes these systems fail. Was that what
No; actually, there was no safety system. The appliance was estimated
to be 50-60 years old. The guy who estimated that was the guy who came
and saved my house (and my neighbors houses) from blowing up. He's
been with the fuel company for 41 years. He says they haven't made
that appliance since he's been doing service for the fuel company.
So it's at least 40 years old.
The dryer circuit really doesn't enter into it; each big appliance
needs its own 220V feed, and ranges are typically higher-amperage than
dryers so need a heavier cable. However, it might be instructive to
follow the dryer cable back to the panel. If you're lucky, it might
lead you to a path that you can pull the new cable through alongside
it. It will also show you how a 220V (black, red, white, ground) cable
goes into a two-pole breaker.
A range circuit will probably be the biggest electrical cable in your
house, and the toughest to fish through tight spaces. You may also need
to make some hard choices about whether to drill big holes through
joists, notch them (shudder), or find some longer route. The cable's
expensive so you'll want to buy only what you'll need; that means
you'll need to plan your route before you have the cable in hand, which
is difficult if you've never worked with thick stiff cable before.
Actually, I should ask if you've looked behind your existing gas stove.
If the house is reasonably new you might find it's got a range outlet
installed; in many jurisdictions code requires a range outlet even if a
gas stove is being put in.
I'm not suggesting this as an ideal solution, but....
If Lesley's budget is tight, and maybe the main panel can't accomodate
another 230 volt circuit or is a real pain to make a new run to, and if
her life style could accomodate this, like perhaps she lives alone and
only needs to run the dryer every couple of weeks or so;
Would it pass code to simply install a transfer switch in the laundry
room and share the present feed between the dryer receptical and a new
stove receptical on the other side of the wall, if the present dryer
breaker and cable can handle the stove load?
My devious mind even envisons making a hole in that wall, prettying it
up with cable grommets and a short piece of PVC pipe and running the
stove pigtail through it so that she could just plug whichever appliance
needed to be used into the existing dryer outlet. Never heard of anyone
doing that, but again, I'm just wondering if it would pass code, it
doesn't seem much different in concept from pulling out the kitchen
toaster's plug so you can plug in the Mixmaster when it needs to be used.
I agree that I should and want to do it right! A friend's husband took
a look at everything and said that there is easy access to the wall
where the stove would be, from the basement. This will allow the wire
to be fished up to the outlet to plug into. The circuit panel has
space and is adequate. For someone who knows what they are doing, does
it regularly and is prepared with tools and supplies, he thinks it
would take about 2 hours, assuming we run the wire along the surface of
the joists to get where it needs to go, stapling it in place.
This doesn't SOUND like something that should cost very much. Does
anyone have any ideas about how much a licensed electrician would
charge for 2 hours' work??? I'm near Buffalo, NY.
Thanks everyone! Really, most of what everyone has had to say here has
been useful. And that idea of using the same outlet with a switch for
the dryer and range--I wouldn't have thought of that, but if it hadn't
been suggested, I wouldn't have learned WHY it cannot and should not be
done! So even posts that seem crazy by the standards of people who
know what they're talking about can be useful to people like me who
know absolutely nothing! If that makes any sense. . .
I will let you know how it goes. . .
A good electrician should have the whole job done in about 1.5 - 2
hours, again if everything is as you say, and nothing unexpected pops
Thanks for keeping an open mind on the options. But when it comes to
electricity - be careful about suggestions you get in a public forum.
People like Jeff Wisnia (aka DIPSHIT) think it's fun to come up with
stupid ideas to supposedly save a buck or two, potentially at the cost
As with anything else, there is a right way, and a wrong way to do
In this case, calling an licsenced, bonded and insured electrician and
having it done as you plan - is most definately the right way.
When the electrician comes, run Jeff's ideas by him, and let us know
what shade of pale he/she turns.
P.S for Jeff Wisnia:
YOU ARE A DIPSHIT.
I kinda had a feeling that would be the case which is why I left myself
wriggle room by saying, "if the present dryer breaker and cable can
handle the stove load", in my reply.
Probably the only person on this group who would have taken my
questioning whether a xfer switch would be "code legal" (if the wiring
and breaker were adequate for the stove) as a serious suggestion is that
&*%$^&# Matt. I won't know if he did or not because I killfiled him
after I decided that his whole alimentary tract had somehow gotten reversed.
Things like that may make sense in extreme cases, kind of like having the
same circuit power an air-conditioned in summer and an electric heater in
winter, provided a switch was placed in the circuit assuring both could not
be energized at the same time, But in this case the dryer needs a 30 amp
circuit and the range a 40 or 50 amp
Gosh Jeff, you are just too clever. Apparently, not satisfied to stop
at turning your own house into a firetrap, you would like to help
others as well.
Oh well. I guess just as with doctors and lawyers, someone in the world
there has to be the worst engineer as well. I'm glad I know who it is
"As long as there are idiots like Jeff Wisnia, firemen will have plenty
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